The time lapse bar keeps getting raised. A few years back a mountain top covered with clouds shot with a digital camera was enough for us to make a small wow. But as technology gets more accessible, those are no longer enough. This video by Kirill Neiezhmakov has nothing to do with those static shots.
I’ll admit that when Canon first launched the MH20f-SH I was kind of skeptic. I mean what in the galaxy are the uses for a 4,000,000 ISO camera?
Well, Ben Canales just proved that there are cinematic visions that can use this tool. Ben used the Canon ISO beast to shoot an exceptional video where the Milky Way is clearly showing in the footage. Not a time lapse, a video.
Ben shot this movie with a Sigma ART 20mm lens at ISO 400,000. Quite impressive right? This is about 10 stops higher than your average 400ISO. This incredible ISO allows Ben to realize a hard to film visual, live video with the Milky Way acting as background.
If you own a Canon and use their strap. Have you ever wondered what that little rubber thingy on the end of the strap is? I did, and I don’t even use a Canon. Turns out this little rubber thingy is a cap. And not just a cap, it is used to block the view finder so there are zero light leaks and flares. It’s usefull for when you are doing extra long exposures, light shooting stars at night. Huge thanks to Bassam Sabbagh for sharing this tip with us.
Now if you wanna go out and shoot stars, this is how to start.
It’s why mine always suck, too. Light pollution. It’s hard to escape it these days. It’s the thing that puts many budding astrophotographers off before they’ve really even got started. This video from Sriram Murali puts things into context.
Filmed mostly in California, this short shows how the night sky changes as you get further from the city lights. Sriram uses the Bortle Scale, which ranks skies from 1-9 in order of darkness. 1 is the deepest darkest sky, while 9 is the inner city sky.
With the impending Perseid meteor shower peak over the next couple of days, night time photography has suddenly become popular. But when you’re expecting one of the best meteor shower views in years, what else can you expect?
In this video from TIME, photographer Stuart Palley shares tips to create beautiful photographs after the sun goes down. Stuart covers a range of topics from planning through workflow to shooting the images themselves.
Photographing a meteor shower is more like photographing a time-lapse than traditional still photos. You can never anticipate where or when a meteor is going to streak across the sky.
In order to catch them, you have to set up and take as many photos as you can throughout the night with a wide angle lens on the camera. If you leave the camera in the same position, you can use the resulting images for a short time-lapse clip in addition to the still images you can capture.
As Earth passes through the trail left by comet Swift-Tuttle, the night sky will come alive this month. More commonly known as the Perseid meteor shower, it will peak on August 12th this year. That’s this Friday.
Starting in mid-July and lasting for about 5 weeks, the Perseids have become a regular annual attraction for many photographers. Indeed, the perseids will continue this year until about August 24th. You’ll probably want to do it before the full moon on August 18th, though, if you want the best view.
I’ve always had a lot of fun challenging myself with creative and/or technical limitations. Like giving myself a photo assignment to spend the day or even an entire vacation with a certain camera/lens combination and a limited shooting style, like to shoot only macro or only black and white, etc. It usually makes me work harder to get the shots, but more importantly, I often come home with photos I probably wouldn’t have if I had taken my best equipment and approached shooting in my usual way. And who knows, what if through an exercise of self-imposed creative or technical limitations, I accidentally “stumble on a style”?! Which is exactly what happened to me and why I’m suggesting you try it yourself!
Now that he has completed the project and released a book containing high-altitude aerial night-time photos from 10 iconic cities, Leo Laporte of The New Screen Savers interviewed Vince about his experiences up in the sky.
Other than discussing some of the technical aspects of the shoots, Vince also discusses why these photos will never be captured again.
Shooting the night skies is a very rewarding field of photography, especially after you’ve sat in the dark cold night for 5 hours waiting for a time lapse or a startrails sequence to complete. But if you are shooting in a cold location (or a terribly cold night) you may lose the sequence to dew or condensation.
Once the camera hits the same temperature as the ambient temperature, some mist (or worse, dew) can start building up on the lens. If you are lucky it builds on the outside of the lens, creating a fuzzy blur to the photos. If you are unlucky, it can create drops of water inside the lens.
Mark Peter Thorpe (a.k.a pixelhobo) has a great description and a great solution: