Create these five different portraits looks using just one light

I feel the need to confess something: I’m naturally a bit lazy so my mantra is always to work smarter not harder. I often shoot portraits on location, and I often travel by public transport. Therefore, I will always try to do more with less. Usually that means less equipment (like I said I’m lazy and don’t like to have to carry too much gear around!), so I have become a bit of a one light aficionado.

Sure, I know how to use multiple lights, but I really do love the simplicity of one-light plus reflector set ups and utilising ambient or natural light to your advantage. This video from Martin Castein is a great example of how you can create multiple different looks from just one light. All you need are a flash, a trigger, a light stand, a softbox, and your camera, that’s totally doable on the metro!

1. Butterfly Lighting

If you’re looking for a clean, polished look, butterfly lighting is your go-to setup. Perfect for beauty shots and headshots, this technique flatters most subjects by minimizing imperfections and giving the skin a radiant glow. I often gravitate towards this shot to highlight cheekbones; it can be particularly beautiful for female subjects.

To achieve this:

• Position your softbox slightly above your subject’s eye line and angle it down towards them.
• Keep the light directly in front of your subject to create a small shadow under their nose, resembling a butterfly.

Pro Tip: Stand close to the softbox—sometimes even touching it—and bias the light slightly to one side to add subtle dimension. This setup is a confidence booster and often guarantees pleasing results.

2. Side Lighting

Ready to add a touch of drama? Side lighting is ideal for artistic portraits that feel expressive and moody. I often prefer this set up for male subjects, as for older women it can highlight skin texture.

Here’s how:

• Position the softbox to the side of your subject, turning it 90 degrees so the light skims across their face.
• Skip the reflector for this setup—embrace the shadows for added depth and texture.

This is a favourite for creating striking, dimensional portraits. Experiment with angles and distances to control how much shadow and light interact.

3. Rembrandt Lighting

Named after the master painter, Rembrandt lighting mimics the warmth and texture of natural window light. It strikes a perfect balance between polished and dramatic.

Steps to create it:

• Place the softbox at a 45-degree angle to your subject and slightly above their eye line.
• Aim for the characteristic triangle of light under one eye, which is the hallmark of this style.

Pro Tip: Adjust the distance of the light from your subject to control the intensity of shadows and the contrast ratio. This setup is perfect for when you want a classic, timeless feel in your portraits.

4. Broad Lighting

Broad lighting often gets a bad rap for “making people look wider,” but when done right, it offers a soft, painterly quality that’s wonderfully flattering.

To nail broad lighting:

• Start with a Rembrandt setup but move the light further to the side, around 60 degrees.
• Ensure the side of the face closest to the camera is well-lit.

Pro Tip: Moving the light slightly farther back enhances texture and adds dimension. This technique works wonders for feminine and softer looks, defying the myth that broad lighting is always unflattering.

5. Short Lighting

Short lighting is the most dramatic of the bunch and can be both slimming and striking. However, it’s best used sparingly, as it tends to emphasize texture and shadows.

Here’s the setup:

• Position the light so it illuminates the side of the face that’s furthest from the camera. This means moving the light past your subject’s nose.
• Keep in mind that this style works best for creating a mysterious or cinematic feel.

Pro Tip: Short lighting pairs beautifully with edgy outfits and intense expressions but may not suit every subject or mood. Use it to tell a story rather than as your default.

Mastering these five one-light setups will transform your portrait photography. Each style offers its unique vibe, from the polished elegance of butterfly lighting to the bold drama of short lighting. Don’t be afraid to experiment with angles, distances, and modifiers to find your own look.

Portrait photography is about storytelling and connecting with your subject. With just one light, you can craft compelling narratives and concentrate on the things that matter without getting bogged down with equipment. Sometimes less really is more.

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