Clever Lens Heating Tip For Star Photography
Oct 25, 2015
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Shooting the night skies is a very rewarding field of photography, especially after you’ve sat in the dark cold night for 5 hours waiting for a time lapse or a startrails sequence to complete. But if you are shooting in a cold location (or a terribly cold night) you may lose the sequence to dew or condensation.
Once the camera hits the same temperature as the ambient temperature, some mist (or worse, dew) can start building up on the lens. If you are lucky it builds on the outside of the lens, creating a fuzzy blur to the photos. If you are unlucky, it can create drops of water inside the lens.
Mark Peter Thorpe (a.k.a pixelhobo) has a great description and a great solution:
This is something we don’t see until about an hour into the shoot which has been going handsomely. We then start to see a black fuzzy area appearing in the center of the resulting image, Whaaat the (insert expletive of choice) is thaaaat? Is the initial thought. Yeah, condensation. It happens once the glass element of the lens reaches the same temperature as the ambient temperature, until this point if the camera had been pulled from a nice warm backpack it is the residual heat in the camera and lens that has been fighting off the build up of mist on the lens. Once it starts there’s no immediate remedy, the glass will have to be heated but that takes some time to ward off the immediate presence of mist
There are commercial products that heat up the lens to avoid condensation but they are not the cheapest. Instead, Pixelhobo suggests using Heated hand packs to keep the lens warm and avoid condensation.
First you use the adhesive on the pads to stick two of them on the bottom part of a lens (heat should rise to warm it all)

Then you wrap a piece of elastic Velcro to keep them on the lens and to better utilize the heat.

Some of the larger pads provide 8 hours of heat, which should be enough for most shoots.
[Seeing Stars, or not! | pixelhobo]
Udi Tirosh
Udi Tirosh is an entrepreneur, photography inventor, journalist, educator, and writer based in Israel. With over 25 years of experience in the photo-video industry, Udi has built and sold several photography-related brands. Udi has a double degree in mass media communications and computer science.































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9 responses to “Clever Lens Heating Tip For Star Photography”
Mine was $24 off Aliexpress, and takes 12V power.
I would have thought the external element would be the most important to heat? If the heat transference from the body is enough to keep the front element warm, aren’t you over-heating the body elements?
Over heat the body? Its a hand warmer, not a bunsen burner. :) The idea for this DIY is to raise the temp of the body and lens elements to an acceptable temp, doesn’t have to be toasty warm.
Scott Tyack it wouldn’t need to keep it warm as such, just a degree or two above ambient. Chances are a large portion of the cooling effect comes from the much larger surface area of the lens body. I’m guessing most lenses would tolerate 40 odd degrees C without any hardship and probably a lot more
As you say the issue is to keep the temp just above the dew point. In this system the body of the lens must be heated to a higher temp so the the warmth transmits to the center of the front element. I would think that even heating to just above dew point would keep everything at its best optically. Uneven heating could introduce other issues?
hot hands cost about $2 a pack and a rubber band.
This is my method and it works very well. I buy Hot Hands by the case on Amazon so I’ve always got them on hand.
Clever
From what I’ve read the best mod for photographing the cosmos is to fix a Peltier cooler to the main chip.