Studio Lighting - DIY: Home-made Power Pack Flashes (Part I)
The following article was contributed by Avner Richard, not only a great photgrapher, but also an electronic wizard.
Studio strobes are quite expensive, especially when dealing with high power strobes, or multiple heads - the power pack solution.
In this article I’ll present my strobe power pack project, which is an easy DIY electric project.
Please, please (please!!!) read the Dealing With High Voltage warning.
The first thing you will need is a xenon tube. Several types and models of flash (xenon) tubes exist on the market. Mostly, for a high power studio flash project, like this one, you’d want to get a round flash tube which is thick in diameter, and has a high power rating of some hundreds of watts-second (W/S) which is the same as Joules. If you need Flashtubes, Xenon Flash Tubes or other parts contact Avner via www.photoar.com
Now, lets have a look at the circuit schematic, and understand how it works .(see schematics after the description)
- At the left you will find the main input of 220VDC, which will arrive to a bridge rectifier. If you cant find a bridge rectifier, you can build one very easily, using 4 diodes, as the schematic explains.
- From this rectifier we have two outgoing wires: the positive and negative. They provide ~300-350 VDC to our circuit.
- Cut the negative wire, and insert a fuse to protect our project.
- For the positive wire, use a resistor instead, the resistor will limit the current, so the capacitors charge will be regulated and not too violent.
- After you have connected the fuse on the negative wire and the resistor on the positive wire, connect the main storage capacitor(s). Positive to positive and negative to negative. If you use several capacitors, they should all be connected in parallel.
- From this point those two wires will feed the flash tube with power. Make sure you use well insulated wires, thick enough to carry decent power. This circuit will surge several hundreds Amps (depending on your setup), from the capacitor to the tube in the moment of firing.
- Connect the two wires to the tube’s electrodes. Check if your tube has a polarity, and respect it.
- Now, as you can see, on the schematic you have to get the triggering system together. Connect the small trigger capacitors with its resistor as shown, and the trig. transformer’s common wire (thick) to the NEGATIVE main wire.
- From now on, you have two wires that will command the triggering (the one coming from the trigger capacitor (thick), and the one coming from the trig. transformer (thin)). These wires have a potential of around 350v, which will be harmful to your camera’s PC Sync port. So.... you have to insulate this high voltage.
- Using an optocoupler and SCR, connected as shown above, you will have, again, two wires going to the camera’s PC Sync port, but now with a few volts potential only, which is safe for your camera.
- Please note that a power source of ~6 VDC is needed to feed the optocoupler. Hacking a small cellphone transformer, is the best solution. It will integrate all power sources in your project box. If you dont have a cell phone charger at hand, feel free to use simple batteries to reach 6V. The consumption will be close to zero! The optocoupler will draw only some 20mA for about 1/200 a second every time the flash is fired.
- Finally, the second (thick) wire of the trigger. The transformer will be connected directly to the flash tube TRIGGER terminal.
Try to keep this wire the shortest possible, even locating the trig. transformer right near the tube. This wire will supply a several Kilo-Volts, keep it well insulated, and spaced from other components.
Here are some tips for your experiments when trying to assemble the circuit
- Your main concern is to keep the capacitor empty after an unsuccessful firing attempt - it is highly recommended that you make a discharge switch for your experimental capacitor. (Use a small capacitor!! about 10uF).
- Connect a HEAVY DUTY (or just mains line power) switch with a light bulb in series with the capacitor’s terminals. After an unsuccessful attempt to fire the flash, unplug the circuit from mains power, and press your discharge button to fully discharge the capacitor. Now you are safe to work on the circuit again.
- Remember - always monitor your capacitor using a voltmeter to check it’s status
As you can see the circuit is not complicated, but might include components which are not yet familiar to you. Here is a list of the components along with descriptions:
- D1-4 => Fast recovery / general use rectifier diodes. Rated at min. 400v 1A.
- Fuse => rated at 230v 1A. or depending on your resistors/lightbulbs setup – see below
- R1 => is the current limiting resistor. Its value will affect recycling time. Recommended is a value of 47 to 100 Ohm, but power must be high, this resistor will be heating alot, please consider cooling if needed. - see the great idea for this item.
- C-store => This is the main power storage capacitor, it must be rated at 400v at least (450v recommended), and and have a value of 1000uF for every 50W/s of the flash tube. (i.e. for providing 350W/s to the tube, you will need 7x50W/s, thus a capacitor of 7000uF, or 7 caps of 1000uF, etc...)
Storage capacitors are probably the most expensive part in this project, but still nothing near the substantial costs of purchasing a commercial product. Have a look at your local or online electronics store to get an idea of the costs. If you plan on using several capacitors to reach the wanted amount of power (for example 7 capacitors of 1000uF), be sure to use the SAME rated capacitors, preferably the SAME models exactly. You may also want to check some ebay auctions for old stock capacitors. - C-trig => is the capacitor which will feed the triggering system when you fire the flash. A ceramic capacitor rated at 0.1uF, 400v. Those values also depend of your trig. transformer. But the above values are common.
- Trig. Transformer => is a coil which will receive the ~200v from the trig. Transformer and will turn it to several KVolts (4,000-10,000v), in purpose of igniting the xenon gas inside the tube.
- Q1 => is a silicon SCR. Should be rated at least at 400v 6A.
- IC1 => is an optocoupler, common moc3020 will do the job, or any other optocoupler rated at 400v at least.
Great idea:
Since power resistors are quite expensive, especially when reaching 75-100W values, and they will also need decent active cooling to avoid overheating, You'd want to try somthing creatinve.
A definitely creative solution will be to use standard cheap lightbulbs!! Lightbulbs are resistors, which make light, and are EXTREMELY cheap. The only thing you have to worry about is the impedance. Grab some lightbulbs and an Ohm-meter, and measure the bulb’s impedance. It should read around 30-50 Ohm, which is ideal as rating.
If you experience long recycling times, you may ADD lightbulbs to your circuit, in PARALLEL to the first bulb. The more bulbs the more powerful the unit can be (if you build a 100W/s unit, a bulb or two will do the job). Now, here is a nice trick - consider the option of using halogen bulbs! rated at 500W, they have an impedance of 10-20 Ohms, which will shorten even more the recycling time. The best thing about these bulbs is the low cost. Moreover – light bulbs are DESIGNED to stand high temperatures without any cooling. In this project the lightbulbs won’t be on constantly. The bulb will illuminate just after firing the flash, during the recycle time, then will fade out until next flash is fired. - not exactly model light, but still nice.
That’s it ! your work is completed !
Now that your basic flash unit is working, you can go on and see some variation on the home made flash (it has cool flavors of the flash unit: ring light, beauty dish, soft box and more). Combined with the homemade backdrop and the DIY reflector stand you can come up with a very low budget studio.
Dealing with High Voltage Warning
This project is dealing with high voltage circuitry. Please be extremely careful and stick to the given schematics!
Charged capacitors can still have juice after hours, days, and even weeks; never touch capacitors terminals unless you are sure it is fully discharged.
Never work on a circuitry while it is connected to the mains power !!!
Never work on a circuitry while its capacitors are still charged. Be sure to discharge them fully.
Neither the writer nor the publisher of this article are responsible to any damage caused by attempts to reproduce this project. This project was made for 200V voltage, for other curents, adjustments have to be made.
You are the only responsible to your equipment and life. don't drink and weld.
Get the DIYP greatness via RSS, newsletter and Twitter
Connect with the community:Facebook Page, Discussions, Readers Projects
Share Ideas, Setups, Images and Projects on DIYP's Flickr, visit Readers Photos
Comments
Thanks
Thankyou, this just became a must-do project for me.
I'd like to see ideas for mounting these in a standard head design, so that accessories like reflectors, soft boxes, and snoots could be interchanged easily.
I think we also need a modeling light idea. In the simplest form this would simply be selecting the correct wattage modelling bulb to represent the W/S power output of the flash.
To Chris
Thanks Chris !
actually i'm working currently (in my secret hidden labs :D ) on a specific compact flash head which will be portable for outdoor locations.
it includes a 30W compact fluorescent lamp (those short 'stick') so it comes perfectly inside the round flash tube !
the next article parts will be dealing with making the flash portable, and integrating the modeling light :)
flash head
i love to build this. How do I built the capacitor discharge globe and the switch?
Thanks
Great project.
Nice project man. I'm very excited to try this one. I've been contemplating for a while wether or not I want to buy myself some monolights. Now I can make my own for a fraction of the the price. I feel like christmas came early. :P
How much does this cost?
I am very curious to hear any feedback about what price range in which anybody has been able to build this project. I find it very, very interesting.
Project's costs
Ryan,
the main cost in this project is the capacitors. try to look for cheap old stock 360v-400v-450v capacitors at you local electronics shop, with the desired values.
except capacitors youll need some additionals components as described, which can cost a few more bucks...
if you need flash lamps (tubes) have a look here: http://photoar.com/flash/
Thanks and good luck !
I just looked at this
I just looked at this page.
How much are the materials if one wants to make say... 200 or 400 wattsecond setup?
Thanks
200/400Ws design costs
Hello,
please re-read the capacitors explanation part.
It says you need 1000uF per 50W/s.
for a 200W/s youll need 4000uF (4x1000uF capacitors for example)
for a 400W/s youll need 8000uF (8x1000uF capacitors for example)
Again, the costs depend on your ability to find big capacitors for a good price. ebay, old stocks, etc...
but the capacitors are the greatest expense you'll have in a basic flash design
big capacitors - price
Example:
In Russia - (80ws) 4000uF*350V - 6.29$
Andrey Osipov
Hello!
Com to my site
http://www.osipoff.ru
Site\forum of electronics Studio Lighting Flashes.
forum map
http://www.osipoff.ru/map-f.htm
http://www.osipoff.ru/...viewforum&forum=33
and e.t.c. ...
photo-synx
http://www.osipoff.ru/...&forum=7&start=0
electronics Studio Lighting
http://www.osipoff.ru/...topic=14&start=0
You can ask questions in english.
Andrey Osipov
Simple quick charge the capacitor
Only charge.
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/8922/75jz.gif
Recycling time - 0.5 sec
Andrey Osipov
What make the curcit diagramm?
Very fast and simply..
http://www.osipoff.ru/...viewtopic&topic=98&3
Andrey Osipov
hi, would like to ask if
hi, would like to ask if this schematic is for triggering 5 xenon flash tubes?
I am actually keen on using 24VDC SLA battery instead of 220VAC for powering the DIY strobe. Which means i will have to use a transformer to convert 24VDC to 400VDC for charging the storage capacitors. Do you have any idea if this is efficient?
Another option is to use an inverter to convert 24VDC to 220VAC and connect to the charging circuit. Which option is better? Thanks
Andrey Osipov
____________________________________
Great idea:
A definitely
creative solution will be to use standard cheap lightbulbs!!
___________________________________________________
Source-
http://www.osipoff.ru/dump/post.php?post=11913
Help for a Noob
Hey all,
This idea looks great. I know how to solder and am quite electrically inclined, but following a schematic is very abstract for me. Can someone please write up a guide with pictures? I would definitely appreciate it. I would even buy a kit if it came with step-by-step instructions with pictures.
Thank You!
daniel
Help for a Noob
One step of
Interactive Guide with pictures.
Storage capacitor
Andrey,
Thanks Andrey for all the help you are giving to us.
I am going to build this unit and trying to incorporate few things and please give me a hand.
I realize the above circuit is modified to fire by the push button switch.
My main concern is how to build some thing to discharge the storage capacitor after unsuccessful attempts. This will be useful when building. Please could you supply a diagram.
Thanks,
Dimi…
Connecting to camera?
Hi, this sounds like a great idea and something I'd definitely like to have a go at. Maybe this is a stupid noob question but, how does it physically connect to a camera? I see there are wires going off to the PC sync/hot shoe, are they just wires or is there some kind of connector on the end? Any chance of some pictures to illustrate?
Thanks.
What connect? - some pictures
Cable - connect here so.
But usually use a photo the synchronizer. ( photocell) 
On the curcit of flash it{he} is not shown. But to collect the curcit of a photocell of the receiver very simply.
Question about curcit
Hello Osipoff,
I think you have a very nice Web-Site but I can`t read it and sometimes the site is down. So I just ask you my questions.
Do you have any flash cirquit with capacity output control. The same Like a Multiblitz or Broncolor flash heads or generators.
I think in the range of 1000 to 1800 joule. Or do you have some cirquits from Broncolor ?
Thanks from Germany
Please write e-mail to my e-mail address.
for-Question about curcit
I am a Taiwanese. I also don't know about russia.But Mr. Admin Give me a website for translation Russia to English.. Maybe Russia to Germany
http://www.online-translator.com/srvurl.asp?lang=en
About Broncolor and Balcar flash lamp voltage pressure I want to know too...
Hello, nice site nah =)
Hello, nice site nah =)
The flash
Hello!
I'm trying to charge my capacitors up to 390V. How can I do this? How big bridge rectifier I need to use? And what's the size of resistor? Is it 100ohm?
What's the main role of that resistor? To limit the current, is it?
Thanks for help!
schematic 230 VAC - 390V DC
Here - the schematic fast charge - 1 sec
Source: here
An another Idea
Hi,
first I want to say thank you for the original schematic.
I built it a few weeks ago. But I wanted to have various power, so each of my store caps has a own Switch to load it. To prevent the other C's from loading I attachted a diode and a switch to each of the Cap's like shown below...
PLEASE IGNORE THE "." but If I didn't use them the Schematic wuld not be showable. Perhaps someone can paint it and post here
...........D1..........Store C
(+)----|<|----X----||----- (-)
....................|
(+)------°\----|
............°
.......Switch
So I can choose my Lightning-Power from 50Ws up to 500Ws in steps of 50Ws....
Bye
Steve
flah variable power
Hi, I forgot Imageshack... Here is a Paint: http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/4008/flashhw3.jpg
bye Steve
Hi All, Need Help, I have
Hi All,
Need Help, I have successfully setup the flash unit and it can be triggered manually, (with push button).
But I want to trigger with my camera built-in flash, how can I do that? I have some SCR and Photo Resistor. But I couldn't find MOC3020 in my area.
please help me.
Flash Sync
Hi,
I build the flash from the schematic. It is working, I can trigger it manually and optically but my problem is timing...
The main (on-camera) flash is triggering the slave flash but the curtains of the camera are closing before the slave flash triggers or the slave flash is firing a few micro-seconds after it sees the main flash light. I tried all speeds up to 1/250, even more, I can see the slave flash light through the viewfinder. What can be?
My camera is a Canon 20D, I tested with first and second curtain, red-eye reduction off, etc.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Andrey Osipov
About a photo synchronization (triggering) of double flashes..
Time of a delay and quantity of preliminary flashes
At different photocameras
- a miscellaneous.
Circuit diagram are designed basically on
Canon
Look the table (2 colonn - delay time in millisecond ):
All about photo synchronization of double flashes on a site osipoff.ru .
In Canon flash with two impulses (double flash) is used.
The first flash
- measuring.
The second flash - the worker.
For slave triggering - it
is possible to use such scheme:
Still circuit diagrams for a phototriggering of double flashes. .
flash
is there a circuit for 110v power suppley ?
Andrey Osipov
No - 220-230 v.
If it is necessary for you - specify the concrete circuit.
I shall help with adaptation of the circuit to 110 volt.
Modifying old flashes
Does anyone know how to modify older flashed so they have selectable variable power output ?
I have a Canon ML-3 ring light that i would like to have a power control knob on it.
Canon ML-3 Modification
Has anyone found out how to do this? Add a power knob to the ML-3 by Canon? Looking for the same solution or even a direction to follow.
Regards,
Gui
Optical slave flash triggers...........
Just found this great DIY photo forum.
For the last year or so I have with the help of a clever programmer developed several versions of Paul Janko circuit.
My version is here: http://www.pbase.com/sinoline/pic_ii
This version (Ver.ll) triggers a slave flash from any P&S digital camera, without any setup switches or adjustments.
The newer version, only the code has changed, will trigger on the LAST flash of any of the more professional cameras, it has however to be "learn" by observing one flash from a new camera. It remembers it for the next time though. Remarkably this also works with single flash cameras like the old film ones.
The reason I am posting here is that I have invested some money in PCB's and components for several units and have got very little response from DIY's.
flash
how do I translate all that russian circuit diagrams and instructions.
Thanks....
Andrey Osipov
If specify the concrete circuit diagrams I shall help you.
Studio Flash project
Hello,
I love the clear outline an illustration of the topic. I'll appreciate some
help in two areas.
Firstly, how do I work a modelling light into the scheme? Secondly, I can
only find 55mm linear flash tubes here. I am not sure they can handle
anything beyond 60ws. Now, I need more power. If I deploy say two 1000mF capacitors and connect two linear flash tubes in parallel, what diodes and/or resistor networks must I include?
Any schematic or circuit drawing will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kunle
Fast charge circuit and switching of capacitors, trigger trans.
That
or
discharge the storage capacitor
Thanks Andrey for all the help you are giving to us.
I am going to build this unit and trying to incorporate few things and please give me a hand.
My main concern is how to build some thing to discharge the storage capacitor after unsuccessful attempts. This will be useful when building. Please could you supply a diagram.
Thanks,
Safe photo capacitor discharge .....
Here is a link with the information: (in English)
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/captest.htm#ctdtk
discharge the storage capacitor
ALWAYS TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS ( POWER BANKS ) OF POWER ELECTROLITS CAPS
by means of the POWER RESISTOR OR the LAMP (BULB) .
Look -
The tools
used at work with studio flashes:
target=_blank>http://www.osipoff.ru/modules.php?op=modload&name=phpBB_14&file=index&action=viewtopic&topic=23&forum=6&start=0
Dialogue
with condensers
Without a discharge hich voltage ( 300 - 400 v) caps
........
discharge the caps on flash. If has discharged at first would not receive a
charge on fingers and would not drop a soap tray disassembled :)).
---------
vasimv
correctly reminded, I already was in time
To receive impact by a current.
Now I necessarily use the powerful resistor 270 ohm 20 watt for an obligatory
discharge of caps.
---------------------
The novel
Pankratov.
In general from caps me already got.
!!!!!!!!
To unload on the resistor much less extremely than on fingers!
------------------------
Michael Kuznetsov
discharge the storage capacitor
DC circuit
Do you have a design for a 6v dc power source? I want to build a ringflash powered by a 6v sla.
Thanks
At use 6 V DC - very low efficiency
At use 6 V DC - very low efficiency.
Components for such 6 V DC- 310
V DC converter - are rare also roads.
Self-made converters use all
12 VDC.
For example :
12-310v
Waldemar Szymanski (Poland).
The home-made photo flash invertor
12 V DC - 310 V DC.
Time of charge - about 1 second.
Capacitor
- 1500 MF 330 V
details
Using old flashes
OK, I have a box of old vivitar 283 flashes. I want to build a ringflash by pulling the flashbulbs out and extending the bulb and wires into a homemade ring housing. Can I Use a 3 wire cable and wire the flashes in parralell out of the units then wire the bulbs in parralel at the ringflash? if so, how large of a wire should I use? I have a 600v rated 18 gauge 3 wire cable I was going to use.
Or do I need to run the 3 wire seperately? I'm not sure how much current / voltage runs through the trigger wire. If I use 2 flash bulbs can I run a 5 wire cable seperating the storage cap voltages and just combine the trigger wire?
Thanks so much in advance
-J
vivitar 283 are gold
Hi there,
why would you want to nuke them perfectly good flashes (and excellent ones) and to make them something else?
I would say - keep the flashes, and if you need make them fire in sync.
cheers,
Udi
Ring flash
I am sure some one must had a play with a disposable camera flash. I was told that the 1.5V battery voltage is lifted to 300V for the Xenon tube to fire. Is this correct?
I am trying to build a ring flash using 6 or 7 of the xenon sets from disposable cameras. Even I can get the capacitors from it.
What do you think about this project?
Instead of 1.5 V I will give direct 300V DC. If these are running 300V
Not sure of the life time of these xenon tubes.
Any ideas of problems any one can think of?
Thanks….. dimi
Ring flash from one-shot-cameras
I made one, using 8 equal flash units from one-shot-cameras. The triggers are coupled together to a thyristor for sync. to camera.
I use a CR2030 battery (3V) to trigger circuit, so I dont have high voltage on camera by accident (Canon 20D).
Guide number in meters are somewhat 16, but for close up. Flash tubes are arranged in a circle house with an internal diameter of 120mm.
However I suggest you only use 4 or 6 flashtubes, as many times I have to use f32 (ISO 100) and there is still too much light so a ND filter is also necesseary.
My 50mm macro also performs better on f16 than on f32.
If you want to see a picture; I can send one on sendmefiler or ect.
Great stuff
Hi Morten,
I'd love to see a picture of this. Also please contact me via the contact form. I'd love to talk about publishing how to make one of those.
- Udi
Strobe Lamp
I am wondering for some good quality high speed xenon flash tube for stroboscope. Frequency is 50 cycle/second.
Metz 60 battery pack
Hi all,
great page - and the only one where I found any info about 3 wire power cable.
My problem is I've two Metz 60 CT-1 flash units but no battery packs for them - and to buy them would be very expensive - more than I've paid for flash units. So I'm planning on making my own battery pack - flashes are 6V so I could use 5 x C size cells (R14's) - the rechargable ones are all 1.2V and this is pretty much configuration of original Metz's pack. The problem is the power cable has 3 wires - and I don't know what the third on is for. I noticed that most external power packs from most other makes use 3 wires as well - but I'm complete noob when it comes to electronics.
Is it possible that Metz uses the same method as you did in your external pack configuration and if yes then what should I add to the battery pack to make it work.
Thank for all your help.
Trig. Transformer
I have doubts about the trig. transformer. Can I buy it, or do I have to make it by myself? How can I do it? What are the characteristics (specifications) of the transformer or coil?
Trigger transformer - manufacturing techniques.
Manufacturing techniques of trigger transformers.
http://www.osipoff.ru/modules.php?op=modload&name=phpBB_14&file=index&ac...
Diameter of ferrite rods - 4 mm - L= 30 mm
type of ferrite 600-1000
НН.
1. primary winding:
50 turns;
0.25 - 0.5 mmt wire
size;
1-2 layers
2. secondary winding:
1000f turns;
0,08 - 0,1
mm size;
10- 15 layers
How can I get a trig. transformer?
Hi,
I'd like to know how can I get a trig. tranformer for the circuit of this article. Do I have to buy it or can I build it? How? What are the specifications to buy it?
Thanks!
A 110 implimentation
I'd already really like to see a 110 implemetation of this design, we don't have 220 really accessible here in north america. Could someone wing up a 110 circut diagram with a pc cord input to trigger and post it?
Query Voltage Spec. on Power Capacitor(s)
Thanks for the idea, diagram and spec. I would like to try and build this but my electronic knowledge is a little limited. I understand diagram specs etc apart from the power capacitors rated 450v with 1000uF per 50Ws unit of flashpower.
Looking at component suppliers, I see electrolytic capacitors rated 450v in only 100uF at circa > £2 and physical size 22mm diameter and 40mm high. Same dimensions in a 100v rating for a similar price gets 1000uF !? (ie 10x capacity?). I want to build a flash of circa 500Ws so, as I understand it, would need either 5 x 1000uF (100v) or 50 x 100uF. Other reading suggests volume of capacitor is roughly proportional to it's storage capacity. I would appreciate any clarification if possible please.
I want outside/ travel capability and ideally plan to drive this via 12v SLA battery pack(s) or possibly 12v NiMh (8100 mAh using 30 tagged AA cells packed 3x10x1.2v x 2700mAh). Would this be easy to do and do I just substitute a DC converter with the battery pack for the bridge rectifier ? What implications would this have for power rating on the Power capacitor?
Thanks. I appreciate any help.
Energy capacity for a
Energy capacity for a capacitor is 0.5*C*V^2 (where C is the capacitance and V is the voltage)
100 uF at 450v is 10.125 joules (0.5*100*10^-6*450^2)
1000 uF at 100v is 5 joules (0.5*1000*10^-6*100^2)
The reason size increases with working voltage for a given capacitance is because the capacitance of a capacitor is proportional to the surface area of its plates divided by the distance between the plates. To increase the maximum voltage of a capacitor, you must increase the distance between the plates, which decreases capacitance and also reduces the amount of plate area that can be fit within a given volume.
It is usually easier to take multiple small capacitors at the rated voltage and wire them in parallel than to take multiple large capacitors at a lower voltage and wire them in series. When wiring capacitors in series sometimes you also need a resistor network to balance them somewhat. Nothing extra is needed when wiring them in parallel.
Resistor and Power control ?
Hi,
Very nice project,
I've found a french-said "stroboscope" (used in night clubs, don't know the english word for it !), 300 Joules, for about 50 euros, not sur if it's worth, but does not matter here...
The questions are :
What's happend if we remove the power resistor ? The charging current will be too important ? Is the empty capacitor seen as a short circuit by the mains line ?
Second question : how do work power control in "out of the box" strobes ?
On old "computer" flash, isn't the power to tube cutted after some amount of time ?
Could'nt we make a RC circuit which would cut the supply of the xenon tube after some time (variyng R, we would vary C charge, and a OPAMP based comparator would stop supplying the tube, by a "transistor" for example ?). Is this idea correct ?
Capacitor
Hi, where can i get the capacitors for this online? i live in sa...
found 3900 /400v will these work?
i did find 4 x nipon 1000 /400v on e-bay (but they are used ones)
Yep
capacitors with voltage a bit higher than you need (some headroom) will work.
it's always better to use a few smaller caps than a big one, even if you dont need this separation for power control.
sometimes at extreme situations, a big capacitor will take longer to discharge through one terminal, than 10 smaller caps discharging all at the same time in parallel to the flash tube....
Photoflash capacitors are usually used for strobes, though ive seen a lot of studio strobes using non photoflash capacitors,
i suppose that in longer burning times like in studio strobes, the photoflash attribute is less important
12-24 volt convertor
If you want to use 12 or 24 volts DC to power your DIY strobe,
Just buy a cheap 75 watt or 100 watt DC-AC powerconverter like used in cars for powering powertools, tv's and the like.....
Would be very effective powersupply me thinks :-)
regards, Harold
12-24 volt convertor
sounds like quite a smart ideá! i can get cheap flastubes but i also want it very protable but still with lots of power!
I've been thinking of using my 4600Mah nimh subc cells, they can peak @35A so they should be cabable of recharging capacitors fast? I found some 200V 680Micro farradh capacitors at home , can i use them or is the voltage to low?
I've good insight in electronics and like to mix around with it but i would need someone to tell me what components i would need, for using 6 or 12 V to build a high power flash!
Regards
110v, please.
ANY of these circuits converted to 110v for use in America. PLEASEPLEASEPLEASE.
UNA CONSULTA
HOLA AMIGOS, UNA PREGUNTA
NO HAY NADA EN ESPAÑOL?
DISCULPEN LA MOLESTIA, PERO NO ENTIENDO MUCHO.
GRACIAS
i need to more Studio light
i need to more Studio light schematic diagram
light bulbs
how much heat does it put out? can i also use a fan in conjunction with the bulbs? thanks!
Trigger coil
How can the trigger coil transform the voltage in DC? I thought
u can only transform the voltage in an ac grid???
And where i can buy these ? Cant find something with "trigger coil"
any international manufacturer or product Name/type?
thx!!
xenon flash tube
I am from china, our company can offer xenon flash tube and trigger, If you need Flashtubes, Xenon Flash Tubes or other parts contact :sles@china-jy.com
Help
Please help
I am a photographer not an electronics engineer.
I want to build a ring flash using the following circuit made from the
information on this page.
I am using six Xenon flash tubes taken from Olympus T20 flashes and they are
CB254200-Xe Lamps 28ws
The capacitors I have taken from the same flash units are Photo-Flash
capacitors rated at 330v 450uF
I also have six Trigger coils with the following spec
Trigger Coil (Trigger Transformer) for Xenon Tubes
Secondary Voltage (Max unloaded) 11 kV
Primary VOltage (Max unloaded) 300 V
Trigger Energy (Max) 10 mWs
Trigger Power (Max) 0.5 W
Transformer Ratio 1:36
Primary Inductance 20 uH
Trigger Capacitor 0.047 - 0.22 uF
Can someone with a bit of know how please look at this for me, tell me if
this will work before I build it.
The 100K resistor on the right of the circuit I am really not sure about and
the Cap that is in line with it what value has this got to be
Also is the SCR to powerful for the flashs?
So many question I know but please help, I really do need help with checking
all the values.
Right click to download full size
Thank you in advance
Jamie
Flash circuit
Hi there!
Looks like your circuit is okay, but I'd use a bigger SCR for all those coils. 30ma is a very small current, try it, but it might fry, you'll provably need more than 500mA
I've built a nearly identical setup and i need an individual SCR for each flash tube setup.
The resistor at the end limits the current to the capacitor so that when the SCR triggers you won't make a short circuit and blow the SCR
Good luck, and be carefull!
Using 12V SLA batt + inverter + studio strobe
Hi, i intend to get a 300WS studio strobe that accepts 220VAC. To convert it to portable strobe, i intend to get a 300W inverter + 12VDC SLA batt, 3Ah capacity to power the strobe. May i know if the inverter wattage rating is enough to power the 300WS strobe? I am not sure about the true wattage of the 300WS rated strobe.
Can i assume that the strobe is drawing 300 watt when it is charging the capacitors and stop drawing power when the strobe is fully charged?
I am trying to work out the amount of current drawn by the strobe when it is charging the capacitor so as not to overload the inverter which in turn may draw high current from the SLA batt. Is there anyway that i can work out the values? Thanks
battery pac wiring diagram 230vac supply with relay
what is the specs of capacitor if the suppy is dc 12v?
capacitor
Hi I have assembled the circuit in question seems to work fine but after 4, 5 minutes, the capacitor store has a very high temperature, I wonder if being normal
Thanks
capacitors...........
Now, are you sure, that the storagecapacitor needs to be that "big"? I have been searching the internet and found out, that there aren't that many of those 1000uF 450 V capacitors around, and the electronics purveyors here in Denmark don't even sell those. If they do, they charge me over 200 bucks each. I've been looking at some other diagrams i.e. this one. http://www.discovercircuits.com/PDF-FILES/airmon2.pdf
I don't see that big capacitors, that is if the 0.01 / 500v capacitor actually is a 0,01 F and not 0.01uF.
what prizes do you buy your capacitors at, and where?
ZS-1052?
Andrey, do you know of a good source to buy the Heimann ZS-1052/1 trigger transformer?
1000uf != 50w/s
Hi, this is a very informative article, but I'm not sure that the statement that you'd need 1000uf to make 50 Joules (w/s) is corect.
If you follow the following calculation:
E=1/2*V^2*C
E= Energy in joules
V= Working voltage
C= Capacitance in farads
For a 1000uf cap, rated at 450v:
J = .5 * .001 * 202500 = 101.25
So, a 1000uf cap (of sufficient voltage) would actually give you a little over 100w/s, right?
Post new comment