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PVC Backdrop/Light Stand
I love nothing better than a good PVC construction. This is why I was so happy when David Turman sent in this great PVC stand. As any stand it can double as a light stand or a backdrop stand. You can use the stand to mount the cool backdrop you already made, or "just" your store bought backdrop. David is doesn't talk much, but his picture by picture tutorial is priceless. David, the floor is yours.
Here is my version of a simple and durable PVC backdrop or Lighting Stand. All the pieces are cheap and readily available and assembly is easy. I bought all the pieces at my local Lowe's for about $11.00, so you can do 2 for about 20 bucks not counting the uprights. You might save even more if you buy a multi-pack of the PVC fittings.
PVC Cutting List:
- 10- 3/4” x 8” long PVC
- 2- 3/4” x 6 1/2” long PVC
- 2- ¾ x 3” long PVC
Materials List:
- 10'- 3/4” schedule 40 PVC pipe
- 1- 3/4” PVC cross tee
- 2- 3/4” 45deg. PVC Elbow
- 5- 3/4” PVC tee
- 4- 3/4” 90deg PVC elbow
- 1- small can PVC Cement
Tool List:
- tape measure
- Sharpie marker
- PVC pipe cutter or hacksaw
- Dremel tool w/ sanding drum
- Safety Glasses and maybe some gloves
Just before we start, a word of caution: PVC cement is some very noxious stuff and even flammable. Make sure you use plenty of ventilation and maybe even take a break every so often. And no smoking around this stuff. Safety eyewear is also a good idea
All the items you will need.
Layout the 3”, 6 1/2” pipe, cross tee and 2- 45 deg elbows like this.
To make it easier, join the short pieces to the cross tee and the long pieces to the 45 deg. Elbows like this.
...and then glue them all together like so. Set this aside to dry.
Next lay out the 10 PVC pieces of pipe, 4- 90 elbows and 2 of the tees like this.
...glue them together so you look like this. Make sure all the pieces are fully inserted and the tee in the middle is perfectly vertical.
Next, going back to the crossmember, glue on the 2 remaining tees. Make sure they are nice and square.
Now you should have 3 pieces that look like this.
Now, join the 3 pieces together. A mallet or block of wood might be helpful to make sure everything is fully seated.
One last thing. You will need to grind down the little lip inside the cross tee. The pole I use is exactly 1” in diameter and wouldn't slide through. A Dremel makes light work of this. I neglected to mention that this is much easier to do before you started gluing it together.
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Comments
Great design
I really like the design. Good job. off to Lowes I go....
I appreciate the well laid out step by step. What type of paint would you recommend for PVC pipe?
Rosh
http://www.newmediaphotographer.com
cost of parts
Great idea and design.
I suggest using PVC schedule 80 pipe instead. It has a heavier wall and is stronger. The schedule 40 fittings work with the schedule 80 pipe with no problems. PVC schedule 80 pipe is not available in many stores.
I can supply the PVC schedule 80 pipe in pieces pre-cut to the lengths shown and all the PVC schedule 40 fittings shown in the material list for $ 14.95 plus shipping. All the parts are ready to assemble. The cement is not included but can be picked at a local hardware store.
Let me know if your interested.
donbren@dakotacom.net
Easy and inexpensive to
Easy and inexpensive to make. Will give this a try!
What are you using for
What are you using for uprights? At first I was thinking electrical conduit, but the pic with the clamps looks like the poles fit inside of each other?
Uprights
I'll try to explain the Uprights construction. I was going to make this the subject of another tutorial.
The uprights are 1" diameter painters extension poles, also from Lowe's. About $12 each. First the threaded plastic piece where the paint roller goes needs to be cut off. Note that it has a steel pin inside that has to be cut also. Then you can tap the remainder out of the way with a big nail or something. Then just drill through and screw the conduit clamp to it. On the OTHER end of the pole you have to hack the molded plastic handle off(file it smooth too of course). This presents another problem. With the handle removed the smaller rod will fall out. So about 6 inches from the end of the smaller diameter rod, I put a pop rivet with a washer and it keeps it from falling through. Make 2 of those for the uprights and another for the cross piece and there you have it. The plastic clamps are VERY helpful when you are hanging the Muslin.
I just used the $1 a can
I just used the $1 a can paint. It doesn't stick all that well, but in makes the stand look "used" like a professional would have banging around is his trunk. I guess some sandpaper would scuff it up enough to make it stick better. At my Lowe's all they mention is schedule 40 pipe and don't say what the schedule of the other pipe is. I used the heavier of the two, so it must be schedule 80. Oops
Paint
If you want something that will stick better to the PVC, use the Krylon Fusion. It actually bonds with the plastic instead of just sticking to the outside. It can still scratch but it is much more durable on PVC than regular paint.
It is schedule 40
Lowe's do not carry schedule 80. Looking on your photos I clearly can see the marking on the pipe "SCH40". So it is schedule 40 pipe. Today I build the one and I think it is O.K. for light equipment. Other choice is to use the PVC conduit for out-door use. It is more sturdy, but it is gray. I also put four rubber feet that prevents the stand from sliding on hardwood floor or tile.
Paint for the PVC
At WalMart I have found Krylon Fusion paint which is specially formulated for plastic and works great on PVC.
Very Impressive
Don't know what it is but you did an excellentjob explaining how to make it!
Nice Design.
Looks like a decent design if you ask me. I'll be making two of these and see how they get on holding up a cross-member for a background support, will also use them to hold lights, or use them to hold my 6'x4' diffusion panels long ways, one above and one below.. should be pretty versitile.
Thanks for the write up.
Kev
www.pughphotography.co.uk
Awesome
Wow this would also be great for hanging backdrops to section off parts of the studio. Like to make smaller shooting rooms out of one larger one.
Thanks for sharing.
Larry
Worked wonderfully
Just wanted to add my thanks as I used you materials list and photos to build my own. I didn't even have to glue them but will eventually.
A couple of thoughts: Test
A couple of thoughts:
Test fit the painters pole before grinding. The pole I used was a tight friction fit, no grinding was really needed.
Assemble on a level surface before gluing. Make sure everything is flat and square. You can coat the glue on the outside of the joints. Worked just fine with other projects I've done.
You can also use 1/2" long sheet metal screws. They self tap into the PVC. One on each end of a pipe is enough to hole everything in place. This makes the pipes / fittings reusable for other projects and for making modifications
Nice Backdrop Stand
I took the liberty of following the steps to create the foot of the stand, made two of these, cut out 2 7-foot 3/4" PVC uprights, and an 8-foot 3/4" crossbar. This design is strong enough to hold an 8'x12' muslin background, without issue.
Thanks for the great design!
Love It
I built the stand as described, however for the uprights and horizontals, I used EMT conduit. For the first four foot of the upright, I used 3/4 inch emt , I then attached a 3/4 inch connector then slid a four foot section of 1/2 inch emt into it, therefore allowing my uprights to extend to 7 1/2 foot tall. (I did have to replace the screws in the connector as they were not long enough to secure the 1/2 inch emt)
For the horizontal, I used 3/4 inch emt, but I cut it in 5 foot sections so it would be easier to transport. This too uses a connector to make the horizontal 10 foot wide.
At the top of the uprights, I wrapped electrical tape around the conduit several times to make a 3/4 inch PVC "T" fit snug on the 1/2 inch conduit. I then slide the horizontal through the "T" connector.
Because the 3/4 inch emt upright does not fit super snug into the 3/4 " inch "T" on the stand, I use an "O" ring to around the emt to help.
On a final note, this type of construction will sway just a little bit but has never collapsed.
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