The words ‘hyperfocal distance’ sound hyper complicated, don’t they? The good news is that hyperfocal distance isn’t as difficult as you might think. It’s also really useful, especially when it comes to landscape photos, because it’s about getting as much of your scene in focus as possible. So let’s dive into hyperfocal distance: what it is, how to calculate it, and when and why to use it.
Have you ever seen a photo that has been taken in low light conditions, where the subject is sharp, but there are blurred lights in the background? It’s a favorite wedding dance floor shot. This effect is called shutter dragging. You achieve it using a combination of slow shutter speed and flash.
High speed sync is flash photography technique that you might not need to use very often, but when you do, it will make a huge difference to your photos. The simple definition of high speed sync flash is that you use it in conjunction with fast shutter speeds. But we’ll go into more depth about why you might need to use, when, and how.
Rear curtain flash sync. You might also hear it referred to as rear curtain sync, second curtain sync, or rear curtain flash. What is it exactly? It’s a flash mode that you can put to creative effect, especially when working with slower shutter speeds. Let’s work through it, from curtain to flash, to see what it is and how you can use it.
Light painting is a fantastically fun photography technique that produces brilliant images. It’s actually pretty simple, but we’ve put together this guide to help you make the most out of light painting. So if you want to know anything from where to light paint to which settings to use, read on. We’ve got it covered.
Photography is about capturing a moment in time. Click! Snap! Pop! Bang! There’s your image. But it does mean that action shots can sometimes appear a bit flat or static. There are, however, techniques that we can use to create a sense of motion and energy. One of those is panning. Here, we look at what panning is, why it works, and how to do it.
Vignetting: sometimes you love it and sometimes you hate it. Sometimes it creeps into your photographs unintentionally and sometimes you decide that a vignette will help to draw focus to your subject and it’s exactly what your image needs.
Vignetting describes the darkening that can appear at the corners of a photo. It is sometimes called light fall-off, because it refers to the difference in brightness between the centre and edges of your photo. Vignettes can be added deliberately to photos but often occur because of optics. In this article, we will look at the different types of vignettes and what causes them, as well as how to remove them and how to add them if you want to, too.
Back in the days of film cameras, being able to accurately judge a correct exposure without having to fish around for a light meter was extremely handy. To do this, photographers would use the Sunny 16 Rule. Now that we have light meters and histograms built into our digital cameras it’s easy to dismiss it as a relic of a bygone era. However, knowing a simple and accurate formula to calculate a good exposure can save you time and be very useful. And if you want to try film photography, it’s a must-know rule.
When you’re starting out with flash, there’s a lot of ground to cover. Just working out which type of flash you want to use, let alone how to use it, is daunting. One of those questions is TTL or manual? In this article, we take a look at what TTL, or through the lens metering, actually is and how it works. We’ll also go over when TTL is the best option compared to when manual flash is preferable.
The rule of thirds is probably the best-known compositional rule in photography. At a guess, it’s the first compositional rule beginners learn. It is straightforward to use, but that doesn’t stop it being effective. In this explainer, we’ll be looking at what the rule of thirds actually is, why it works, how you can use it, and when it’s actually a good idea to break the rule.