This photographer takes photos of flowers and plants using UV-induced visible fluorescence, and the results are beautiful
Jan 12, 2017
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I love photos of plants, flowers and nature. After seeing (and taking) my fair share of these, I started to believe it’s not easy to make them interesting and eye catching. And it’s been a while since I last saw a set of flower images that kept me staring at them with amazement. But then I discovered Craig Burrows‘ photos of flowers and plants which look like something out of this world.
Craig takes photos using a relatively unknown process called UVIVF, or “ultraviolet-induced visible fluorescence.” It’s done by using high-intensity UV lights to illuminate the flowers, which then appear to be quite different than we know them.

Craig shared with DIYP some details about his work and how he achieves this effect. It’s important to point out that this technique requires only UV light to pass and illuminate the flowers. Also, it’s important to work in as dark environment as possible. This is how he does it:
Lighting
For lighting, Craig made a 1/4″ aluminum paddle with an AC->DC power supply on the handle and a 30W 365nm LED package mounted at the front. A heatsink on the opposite side helps dissipate heat. A filter ring is over the LED package, allowing a UG11 filter to screw on over the LEDs and a +10 “macro” adapter to help project the light in a tighter beam. The UG11 filter is necessary because the LEDs emit some visible light as well. The filter blocks infrared and almost all visible light, so very nearly entirely UV is passed.
The LEDs don’t have a good light/power ratio, but they do offer highly directional light in a small package. That allows for much easier filtration to remove the visible light and the ability to easily focus it onto a small area. A UV source with a less discrete wavelength output would also be more likely to produce longer UV waves (380-400nm) which the camera’s sensor would much more likely pick up as just regular blue light.
Craig points out to Nichia as the best maker of UV LEDs. But their products are quite pricey, so may be unaffordable to those who don’t have vast disposable income. He uses a LED package like this, and as you can see – it does the work.
Support and gear
To support the flowers, Craig made a copper stand out of 6 gauge wire and he uses black gaffer’s tape to secure the flowers to its stem. The black tape doesn’t fluoresce, but he has to be careful since the adhesive underside does. So if you try out this technique, make sure to pay attention to it.
To support the camera, he uses a Vanguard Alta-Pro tripod. With its tiltable center column and ball head allows for excellent adaptability and angle choices.
Apart from taking UVIVF photos, Craig also modifies his own full-spectrum cameras and repairs and hacks lenses. His main camera is a Sony A77 with the translucent mirror removed. Prior to that, he used a Sony A57. Typically he’s used 3 lenses: Sigma 50mm F2.8 (pre-digital), Tamron 90mm F2.8 (pre-digital), and Tamron 90mm F2.5 (pre-digital). At F8-F13, a 20 second exposure requires 400-800 ISO, so he believes he would be better off with a newer or full-frame body to deal with the low-light conditions.
The environment
The environment is rather important with this sort of photography since so many man-made things contain optical brighteners which are intensely blue fluorescing. Dust is a constant problem, as are most textiles that would be in the area. Likewise, due to the low brightness, it can only be done in a dark setting.
One of the things about UVIVF that Craig points out as particularly cool is that when exposed to sunlight, flowers, plants, and leaves are all fluorescing. We can’t see that because it is overwhelmed by the intensity of the reflected visible light.
To me it seems like a bit of an effort to create the appropriate setting and achieve these results. But personally, I think it’s definitely worth it. Here are some of Craig’s photos I picked out for you (it wasn’t an easy task):












About the Artist
Craig Burrows is photographer based in Southern California. He’s been practicing photography since 2010, teaching himself through a combination of practice, online resources, and an academic background including physics. With respect to his portfolio, he is an eclectic photographer. If you’d like to see some more of Craig’s work, you can check out his website and Flickr profile, follow him on Instagram and Tumblr and like his Facebook page.
Dunja Đuđić Kalinin
Dunja Djudjic is a multi-talented artist based in Novi Sad, Serbia. With 15 years of experience as a photographer, she specializes in capturing the beauty of nature, travel, concerts, and fine art. In addition to her photography, Dunja also expresses her creativity through writing, embroidery, and jewelry making.

































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11 responses to “This photographer takes photos of flowers and plants using UV-induced visible fluorescence, and the results are beautiful”
Any photos of his LED light? Very cool photos
Search on e-bay: “30w 365nm lded chip”
Those LEDs are junk! They are reject white light LEDs which don’t have the phosphorescent dome covering the LED dies. The radiant UVA output is pitiful compared to the white light they output. The best (most cost efficient) UVA LEDs are made by either Nichia or LED Engin – 3W to 5W power with around 1.6w to 2.5w radiant output. Some DIY projects for UV lights here: http://www.minershop.com/technology/diy-projects/lw-display-light/
Totally agree, that ebay UV LEDs are junk.
I still think, that for photo projects – 250/400w UV florescent bulbs are the way to go.
UV pass through/visible light blocking filters with strobes are still the best(although quite expensive).
Some time ago I did UV project with strobes. I think it is possible to find it here on PetaPixel…
Wow! You use powerful UV lamps. Quartz strobe lights can output very broad spectrum UV (254nm to 400nm) and of course must be filtered with UV bandpass/visible blocking filters (Hoya U325c the best). For the mineral hobby we use lamps with 9w to 36w power mostly (1.5w to 3w UV output). Most of the mineral photographs on Nature’s Rainbows were taken with lamps like those.
You are very correct that the filters are quite expensive, but there are cheap routes to take if you’re a little handy
Those UV lams are quite powerful and emit quite a bit of UV(and a lot of heat), but they are quite cheap. If you get an fixture with starter, from old street light, you can get 400w UV bulb for less than 30$. Or, you can get UV stage light(search on ebay: 400w UV canon) for less than 200$.
Personally, I use only strobes, because I salvaged a dozen 5x15cm UV pas through filters, from vintage UV stage light(Luckiest find ever!).
As for cheap filters – theoretically, although I have never tried, it should be possible to get some descent sized filters by cutting previously mentioned 125w and 400w bulbs(not endorsing it, because it is rather dangerous) ;p
Would be very interesting to know what kind of LED light is used for these photos. The camera settings indicate a very long exposure at higher iso – which means the fluorescence of the flowers is rather muted (compared to fluorescent minerals). Of course if the LED is very low power this could have something to do with it.
By the description – he likely used 30W UV LED chips. And yes – fluorescence of these flowers should be really dim. In my opinion – LED’s aren’t the best option for UV photography, because LED technologies are still rather inefficient, for UV lighting, because they emit a lot of light in visible spectrum and aren’t generating much UV lighting(there are exceptions, but those are really, really, really expensive).
Check out some examples of mineral lights here: http://www.naturesrainbows.com/mineral-light-review-1 – would be great for this kind of photography. The proper filter will remove most of the visible light generated by LEDs and fluorescent bulbs.
A 30 watt (output) UV LED does not exist. It might be a 3 watt (power rating). The most important factor in UV LEDs is the radiant power. I make my own UV lights, 365nm, using LED Engin parts rated at 1.6w radiant (UVA output). He indicated that he uses a UG11 filter which removes most of the visible light; I use Hoya or Wood’s Glass. If he truly is using a 3w LED (very intense UVA output) then the flowers are very dimly fluorescent. We have a web site which explains all this – targeted towards the fluorescent mineral hobby. Most of our pics are taken with iso100, f11, 2 to 5 sec exposure, of course very dependant on the brightness of the UV source. And most are taken using shortwave (UVC) as most minerals react best to that wavelength. http://www.naturesrainbows.com/uv-topics
Check this out: https://www.flickr.com/photos/31391486@N04/27635325536/in/dateposted-public/