DIYPhotography.net

While there are plenty of wireless triggers around, the most fail-safe way of triggering a strobe is still by using a sync cord. Alas, not all strobes come equipped with a sync jack (pc, or 1/8).

Marcell, A.K.A Fiberstrobe came up with a way to add a sync chord to any strobe that has an optical slave. In his case it was everybody's lovable hackable strobe - the YN-460II. It synched wonderfully indoors but failed to fire under strong sun.

The YN460 does not have a PC or a 1/8 jack so actually an optical sync is the only solution if you are unwilling to add an external hot-shoe.

But, they don't call him fiberstrobe for nothing. Using Velcro, cardboard and foamies, Marcell created an optical sync wire that works on light rather than closing an electrical circuit.

[DIY fiber sync cord] Click to continue ›

About a week ago we shared a sweet little video by Tristan Shea Penner showing the flattering results made with a DIY setup similar to Peter Hurley's Kino Flo setup.

While the video showed the awesome photographs that resulted from using the setup, you needed a sharp eye to hunt the different build parts and schematics scattered around the video. We asked for it and here it is. Tristan shared the build diagram. Click to continue ›

Photographer Tristan Shea Penner came up with a pretty sweet portrait setup inspired by Peter Hurley's 3 Kino Flo setup (2 sides, one overhead).

Aside from a taking the Kino Flo's $600-$1200 range down to a Homedepot $20 range, Tristan is also able to travel to people's houses to take headshots with the more portable setup.

[DIY Headshot Lighting BTS via fstoppers] Click to continue ›

A little while back we shared a video about creating CFL light fixures for video lights. It involved driling and sawing. Flaviu Leordeanu sent me this cool oncept that uses almost zero toolsd to get a similar effect.

The following tutorial shows how to build a powerful “LightStrip” using CFLs. As seen in the picture below, the strip has 10 outlets in which I plugged 10 CFL bulbs.

This project started out a bit differntly. I initially thought of using 8 lights, on two 4-socketa power strips. I was going to affix the two power strips onto a wooden bar, painting it all black to make it look more “solid” and less obtrusive, and to use it as a "light-bar", just like that.

So I bought eight 2700K-1640Lumen CFLs from Wal-Mart.

Then, it just happened while shopping at Lowes that I saw a one-piece power strip, all metal, and realized that one long strip would work better than two individual power strips. It would be more solid, neater and can hold 10 light bulbs. The more, the merrier, right?I got it (and two extra bubls - 5500K-1400lumen CFLs this time, to see the difference, Although the final configuration will only use one type of bulb, depending on the project). Click the image to enlarge.

Click to continue ›

We are big fans of home made lighting (see our studio in action here). I am more of a CFL kind of guy, and when I got our video studio up, I opted up for those small compacts florescents. But uber talent Joe Edelman shows that great results can be had with the old school florescents as well.

Joe build anything with simple florescents, from strip lights, to power banks and crazy ring lightish contractions. Of course, being a kick ass photographer does not hurt as well.

Using mostly 2 light fixtures mounted on a rail and 40 Watts florescents to set up his lights, Joe's photography makes a hell of a point that photographs are not about expensive gear (take that KinoFlo). How-to video and sample imagery after the jump Click to continue ›

I love using continuous light sources. At first it was all about the fact that unlike strobes, I could see the light at all time and not only on shutter press. As the time went by, this became even more relevant as continuous lights can be used for video as well.

This tutorial was sent by photographer Lyle Ball and it shows how to make a light fixture that resembles the awesome Spiderlite TD5. It uses CFLs for light, which is both economic and not all that cold. If you are going the same route, make sure to use a full spectrum CFL - they may be a bit more pricey, but the results from the lower end bulbs are just, well... lower end. Click to continue ›

Photographer Alex Sharifi just sent me this quick tip about using PVC 4 ways Tee to create a multi-strobe adapter.

Those are great if you need power for light sucking devices like the Westcott Big Mama.

Here are two pictures to explain the build.

Materials

• 4 ways PVC Tee
• Cold shoes
• 1/4-20 bolts
• PVC caps

Quick Build

• Screw the cold shoe through the PVC cap
• Glue PVC cap to 4 ways tee
• Drill a hold for umbrella
• Rinse and repeat 4 times

There you have it. Your very own 4 ways strobe bracket. Click to continue ›

Photographer Sam McGuire takes the Lumedyne 200W/S Action Pack for a spin. The different thing about this pack is that its T.5 and T.1 times get shorter when you increase flash power. (Usually, the more power you use, the more time it takes the strobe to push it out).

Sam compares two images taken at similar conditions with a short and long T.1 and demonstrates how strobe duration, much like shutter speed, can control motion blur. Click to continue ›

A while back we posted a guide that shows how to build a TTL cord extender using Cat 5e Ethernet cables and plugs.

YouTube member Matthewrichey made a short video describing the process which is worth checking out.

If you are more proficient with a credit card than a cable RJ45 plug crimper you can get a pretty long (10m) TTL cord for about $36 at your friendly online book store.

If any of you folks out there had a try, I would love to hear how long you got your cable before commands to the strobe stopped working.

Lastly, if you wondered why you would need a long TTL cord, check out Syl Areana's super smart way of using a Canon TTL master strobe inside a softbox to control other Canon strobes OR David Hobby's Strobe on a Rope self-assist way of off camera flashing.

[How to make a adjustable flash sync cord with cat5 cable via cheesycam] Click to continue ›

Usually where danger is involved we simply say something like "please know what you're doing" or "If you need to ask how this is done, this is not for you", but for this particular piece, I thought a bigger warning should be in place. And I darn well mean it.

WARNING: This article involves dealing with High Voltage, up to 300v, which is stored in big capacitors. THIS VOLTAGE CAN KILL YOU. Never touch any of the components and always discharge the capacitor before working on it. Always keep in a well insulated project enclosure.

BY FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS YOU AGREE TO BE THE ONLY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MIGHT BE CAUSED BY DOING SO. WORK CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW WARNINGS.

If you think this warning was not bold, big or strong enough, please read it again. (I do realize this may end up in a loop for folks who think this is as easy as a learn how to solder project. That's the point)

This article will help you understand the basics of how a flash circuit is working, and the second part will show you how to build your own optical triggered portable flash rated at 50 watt/seconds! Click to continue ›