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Bokeh is an adaptation from a a Japanese word meaning blur. In photography this term is used to describe the quality of the areas in the picture which are not in focus.
When referring to Bokeh, we can distinguish some of it characteristics:
- Is the light/dark gradient smooth or sharp?
- What shape will a small dot of light take what it is in the Bokeh area? (mirror lenses for example, create a bagel like Bokeh)
We can play with those two variants to create a special Bokeh.
You will need :
1. Cut and shape the sheet to make a fake lens hood. The Diameter is made so that it snugly fits on the lens.
2. In the middle of the filter the wanted bokeh shape is cut out - in out example a heart is used. I’m not sure how big a hole the shape can be. But you can check it right away by just looking through the viewfinder. On the 50mm lens @ F1.8 a 15mm heart gives a metering value equal to F3.2, so it can probably be a little bigger (you can use a puncher or cut it by hand).
3. Set your camera to its lowest aperture value (completely open).
Here are two shots to demonstrate this technique - one with a bare lens and the other with the hearted hood. see more shots here and here (I leave it as an exercise to tell which is which :)

Here are the parameters for the example shown above:
Here are two more great examples for this technique from RottieLover (note - there only one "real" heart in each picture):
Do you have a cool bokeh? show off on the comments or on the flickr group.
This article was contributed by Karsten Stroemvig (aka Lullaby), see his other great photograph projects, or browse through our readers projects section.
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Some More Cool Stuff:
- The Cheapest Ring Light Ever
- The Ghetto Studio
- Painting With Light
- Turn Them Christmas Ornemants to a 360 Fisheye Lens
- The Best 6 Ways To Create Your Own Bokeh
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Comments
Interesting project - please
Interesting project - please feel free to add to www.photographyvoter.com
Not really bokeh
I wouldn't call this bokeh, rather a vignette. I know bokeh is a popular term these days, but it's definition is based on using focus (or lack of focus) to define a subject .
This technique spelled out above vignettes the light to promote aberrations that are beyond that of the spherical aberrations given off by the lens itself. It really has nothing to do with producing bokeh or defining the rest of the image with or without focus qualities.
just my clarifying 2cents.
vignetting vs. bokeh
Bokeh is the quality, amount and SHAPE of blur. A vignetting effect as you describe would be termed by a heart shaped shadow that surrounds the image.
Think of it this way: This heart shaped cover is a cheap way of making the aperture blades heart shaped due to the proximity to the aperture blades. Bokeh is related to aperture plane, Vignetting is related between aperture plane and subject.
Take this same heart shaped cutout on a larger scale and move it firectly between the camera and the dog. You will see a heart shaped vignette.
Thus:
vignetting
(1) A defect of an optical system in which light at the edges of images is cut off or reduced. It is caused by an obstruction in its original construction; for example, when the elements used in a lens are too small.
(2) A visual effect of darkened corners used to help frame an image or soften the frame outline.
I see zero darkened corner on this shot because it is related to the aperture plane. Therefore, bokeh.
Not really bokeh?
Yeah, vignettes that change the bokeh.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia: This article is about the photographic usage of the term "Bokeh".
Bokeh (from the Japanese boke ぼけ, "blur") is a photographic term referring to out-of-focus areas in an image produced by a camera lens. The aesthetic qualities of the bokehs produced by various lenses are open to dispute, but it is generally conceded that an out-of-focus background image can at the very least reduce distractions and emphasize the primary subject.
Bokeh characteristics may be quantified by examining the image's circle of confusion. In out-of-focus areas, each point of light becomes a disc. Depending how a lens is corrected for spherical aberration, the disc may be uniformly illuminated, brighter near the edge, or brighter near the center. Lenses that are poorly corrected for spherical aberration will show one kind of disc for out-of-focus points in front of the plane of focus, and a different kind for points behind. This may actually be desirable, as blur circles that are dimmer near the edges produce less-defined shapes which blend smoothly with the surrounding image. Nikon makes lenses with a Defocus Control function in popular portrait lengths (Nikkor 105mm f/2 and Nikkor 135mm f/2) which allow the user to increase the amount of uncorrected spherical aberration to change the rendering of the out-of-focus areas.
It is not Vignette...
You seem to be completely confused about what Vignette is... without going into the technical aspect, Vignette refers to the dark corners of the frame. It's got nothing to do with depth of field or in this case Bokeh.
Ok.. I did the project...
Ok.. I did the project... and honestly... it's a vignette... granted... the "bokeh" or blurriness of the paper creates the fuzzy edge... you all seem to be very confused about what bokeh and vignettes are... bokeh... is the blurriness of depth of feild, basically everything outside of the focus area, vignette is a frame around a picture (in the "old days" by using either a burn or dodge method. You would use a paper frame to block out or "dodge" a space that you didn't want in the picture when printing on an enlarger. So what this project is, is using the little paper contraption to "dodge" a vignette... only on the camera, instead of the dark room....
Vignette
Take it from an old old photographer. You are altering the lens blades which
cause the pentagon shape in out of focus pictures. This is known as circles of confusion. I was teaching this method back to my students in the early 1970's. One of the nicest photos I have ever seen using this method was a picture of an altar with all the candle flames looking like crosses.
I would love to see that
I would love to see that picture of the altar with the flames looking like crosses. could you post it or email it to me? thanks!
I think YOU are confused.
I think YOU are confused. If you got a vignette, I bet you made the hole the wrong size.
You understand how to make a vignette in the darkroom? Do you really think someone took the time to vignette every single one of those points of light? NO.
A similar thing is to stick window screen over your lens. See what happens to the points of light. And NO, that's not a vignette either!
it is a bokeh not a vignette
the cutout affects points of light a vignette frames the image either in shadow or light but always functions as a frame. if you have lightroom or photoshop go into the filters and add a vignette this way you can see the difference.
french article about bokeh shape modification
I wrote an article for the french forum "virusphoto" here : bokeh shape modification.
If any of you is french speaking or just want to see another way to achive that, feel free to browse to virusphoto.com ! (images are self-explanatory... ;))
neat. much cheaper than
neat. much cheaper than buying the lensbaby creative aperture kit
Really bokeh
It is really about bokeh. according to wikipedia, "Bokeh is a photographic term referring to out-of-focus areas in an image produced by a camera lens." "Vignetting is a reduction in image brightness in the image periphery compared to the image center." As this creative shade is affecting the shape of out-of-focus objects, it *does* affect the bokeh. Vignetting will probably also suffer from the shade, but that's a different story.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokeh
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vignetting
BTW, I'm not trying to promote flaming or discussion. After all, it's not important how it's called, what matters is how it looks
I must be doing this wrong...
I see why these people are calling it a vignette... because that's all I am getting too. It's not at all doing what it suggested by the pictures. It's only creating a heart shaped vignette... the bokeh looks the same shape as always...
This is what you must do
This efffect is best achived with a focal lenght longer then a "normal lens" (50mm or longer) the vignetting will not be seen. Portrait lens for a 35mm camera is 90mm lenght. works the best, but a 90mm portrait lens at f2 is very expensive.
I had learned this trick many years ago in photography school.
Try the cokin system, you can have many different shapes at hand.
Wow
Hi, I am a beginner photographer and I find your site very useful and am a bit disappointed that there aren't more article. So keep up the good work.
RE: I must be doing this wrong...
BeccaSue, which lens are you using ?
The lens must be a lagre aperture.
RE:
50mm lens with f/1.8 or larger aperture (1.4, 1.2)
I got it to work
My heart was just a little too big in the other attempts. Yep, it's a bokeh shape... pretty nifty!
So the key is multiple light sources?
I have been frustrated by this then I realized I need multiple light sources in the background, like a string of Christmas lights or glitter or water or something right?
thanks
this is an awsome site. this one caught my eye, and i made one with a star. it is a very cool idea. i was wondering what the lights in the background are. i had success with christmas lights because they are small. thanks again for these cool tutorials
Thanks so much for this
Thanks so much for this info, it's a great idea and one I will try soon! Thank you for sharing, keep it up!
Rot Hearts
How did the photographer get the hearts so clear on the Rot picture? How do you get it so they are not over your subject? Also how do you get all the different colors? I've never done this before! But I want to try it!
Great Picture
The picture of your wife with the heart on her nose is really sweet!
i have tried this with black
i have tried this with black plastic folder cut out with a different shape:
Simple but nice
This is a simple but nice effect, also easy to obtain. I would have never thought about such thing, so I'm glad I found this article.
sizes
Could you post the sizes you used?
It would be nice the bigger possible keeping the effect so you need less exposition time. I did it with a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 (filter size 52mm) and I cut hearts 1.2mm tall.
totaly works!
I found this page last night while at work. (I work at a Ritz camera store) I went straight home and tried it on my Nikkor 50mm 1.8. I was so excited to find that it worked on my first try. I have been wanting a lens baby for quite some time but just haven't bought one. I think this will help to satisfy my craving for a little while... only thing that i need to fix now is the little paper frays. you can really see them in the photos.
i like the idea of using a coken system
worked for me
Whoa, this is so neat
Worked for me too, this is a great article.
My cheap mask for this shot
I'm lost
I did this and got the background lights in heart shapes but I don't know how you got such a sharp photo of the bear. What kind of light did you have? I did it with my daughter in front of the Christmas tree and the lights in the background were heart-shaped but her face came out very dark and not sharp at all.
How/why
Could someone explain (or point to a website that explains) how/why this works?
I understand the nature of bokeh, and understand that this works because the shape cut out is smaller than the aperture...
And I *sort of* know the basics of how a lens works... but what I don't quite grasp is how the shape cutout only affects those parts of the image which are not in focus.
It seems as though the subject(s) that are at or near the plane of focus are being formed on the image sensor (film) by using only that light which passes through the center area of the lens... and so it's not affected by the "shape mask" .... where as the subject(s) that are far from the focal plane are formed on the sensor using light that is passing through the periphery of the lens... thus being 'vignetted' by the mask.
But that's not right, is it?
What is the physics behind how this mask only affects the part of the image that is not focused?
It's affecting the whole
It's affecting the whole image, it's just not noticable except for on the bright, out of focus areas. It's a similar idea to taping a piece of fishing line across the front of your lens, or a hair -- you'll get diffraction spikes. My telescope produces them naturally. There are diffraction spikes on every star in this picture, but you only see them on the brightest objects.
If the picture had been out of focus, then each star would have a dark circle in the middle (the shadow of the secondary mirror), but the diffraction spikes themselves would be blurry and not so prominent
Bokeh
So, I put this black paper around the lens, do I do a composite with my subject or my subject will be fine, it's just the light being affected?
Yap, just do your composition
regularly, and the large aperture will take care of the nice blur of the out of focus bright lights.
- udi
Bokeh or vinette--whatever
Bokeh or vinette--whatever it's called, it's cool.
Definately Bokeh.
This is definately Bokeh from everything I have ever read or learned about it.
Vignette is the darkened shadow around the very edges of an image, I get it on a couple of my lenses if I am lazy and leave on a couple too many filters.
Bokeh is the blur effect created by a shallow depth of field. Normally the blur would take on the round shape of the aperture when there are points of light in the background, like fairy lights for instance.
In the case of this little experiment, the circular nature of the aperture has been changed to a heart, creating heart shaped bokeh.
And now I will be heading out to try it. Seeing as there are so many christmas lights around this time of year.
I don't get it.
I don't get it. All I manage to have as a result is a blurry heart shaped picture on a black background. Foreground & background stay the same as usual, blurred lights don't get the heart shaped flare.
Re: I don't get it
That happened to me until I made the shape smaller. Try making the heart really tiny in the middle of the paper.
I made it Christmas tree shaped :)
Bokeh
OK, now most of you seem to have got it, try again but this time put several smaller shaped holes in the card over the front of the lens and you will get a number of heart-shaped 'lights' from each out of focus light.
But in-focus areas will still be sharp.
This was the principle of one of the famous German soft focus lenses used on large format cameras - Imogen, I think they were called.
This is because all 'in-focus' light rays come together at the point of focus but out-of-focus rays are spread out.
Bokeh
There are premanufactured "punches" available at local craft stores, that will give you clean and crisp edges. Maybe they are worth a try to get these the best they can be?
Heart Punch or Star Punch
star shaped bokeh
wow, I tried it with a simple star and it worked really well in my opinion :) thank you very much for the cool tip!
arrowrrowrrow
heart
thanks, this was fun.
not a great image, but it works...

hmm..
so I tried this... I think I'm doing it wrong... or will it only work with a DSLR??
Thanks for the tips
I tried it out and came up with (what I think is) a great shot:
Thanks -- a new trick in my bag o' tricks.
Grrr
Frustrated here! I can't figure it out. Got my 50mm 1.8 lens, got my black cardboard paper with a similar sized shape to the examples above cut out of the middle and taped to the lens.
My aperture is set at 1.8 and I have it set to manual focus but i still get pictures of what I see in the view finder without any light bokeh.
Any other tips?
I'm having the same problem!
I'm having the same problem!
Same problem here too
Same problem here too
-> Try throwing the focus
-> Try throwing the focus way off. Make it as blurry as you can with a lot of bright spots (reflective metal, Christmas lights, candle flames, etc).
-> Try making the bokeh shape smaller
If none of them work, try posting your image. We might have a better idea of what went wrong if we have some visuals to work with. So far, the two suggestions I posted are the more common mistakes with this effect.
The bokeh is also much more noticable with high contrast images. A bright light in a dark room would make the effect much more noticable. Also, the blurrier the image, the more you'll see the effect.
I hope that helps :)
(Merry Christmas!)
wow!
This is great! thanks so much for sharing!
Congratulations
This is so creative and cool, thanks very much!!
nomenculture
not really sure why the terminology is so important. You're shaping the circles of confusion into hearts, as far as I'm concerned add me to the bokeh camp.
Cool thing
I've recently learned this trick from a friend, and this is what came out
Interesting!!!
I tried!!! Thanks!
I am new to all of this, I
I am new to all of this, I really wanted a lensbaby as well, to see what sort of effects i could get. What do you need to set the exposure at to achieve this effect?
This is so wonderful! What a creative idea!
I got it
I can't figure out what I am
I can't figure out what I am doing wrong, I am getting the shaped lighting, but it I am also getting the whole frame masked, so I get a tiny image in the centre of the picture, the rest is black from the mask.
Any advice?
Are these images cropped?
What was your focal length?
What was your focal length? If your hole is about 10mm in diameter, your lens has to be about 40+ mm for the "vignetting" to disappear. Generally, you want a 50mm or more for the effect to work effectively. The vignetting is happening because the lens' focal length is too short, so you got a larger picture angle and the board is in the way. The longer your focal length, the smaller the picture angle, the less you'll see of the board. I think the bokeh effect gets stronger with a longer focal length as well.
I hope that helps!
Thanks!
Loved the effect, it was fun!
will this effect work on a
will this effect work on a digital slr?
RE: Why it works sometimes!
For those having trouble making it work...
I ran across this article a while back and tried it on my film SLRs and it worked great on all of them using several different lenses (wide-angle, normal, & tele). I used black poster-board with shapes punched using premanufactured "punches" sold at HobbyLobby, Michael's, etc. The shapes punched in the "lens hoods" were between 5mm and 10mm and they all worked on all the lenses I shot with; however I did notice that with the wide angle lenses I got a lot more dark masking similar to vignetting. Then I tried the same "lens hoods" on my sony 828 - FAILURE! What was a nice bokeh on my 35mm became bad vignetting - even when set to the same lens equivalent and aperture. Tried the shapes on a few P&S digital cameras, and again failure. Then I tried cutting much smaller shapes into the poster-board and tried on those same cameras, and SUCCESS! Borrowed a friend's 5D and the original shapes worked fine. Tried those shapes again on the Sony A100 and again SUCCESS!
From my limited tests some digital cameras use a very small internal aperture even though their 35mm equivalent size would indicate a much larger minimum aperture. From what I can tell if the shape you cut out is "small enough" (apparently at least 2/3 the ACTUAL aperture of the camera) you will get the nice bokeh effect seen throughout this post, but if the shape you cut out is too large, you will only see bad vignetting. So my vote is for both vignetting and bokeh depending on your workflow (- and the pictures posted so far are bokeh not vignetting caused by the "circle of confusion". Check http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circle_of_confusion and http://snodart.com/tutorials.php for those who don't know what the "circle of confusion" is.)
Sorry for the long post, I hope this helps.
-Nathan
same problem as the others..Hmm!
So a few people are having the same problem. and me too.
I keep getting a star shape of photo and all the rest of the frame is black.
I have a 30D with a 17-85 canon lens and have tried various combinations of apertures and zooms. 50mm+ some one suggested so i tried 50-85 with the maximum aperture (which is about 5.0 at 50mm and 5.6 at 85mm zoom. but the same problem arises. Black frame with star shape photo.
I get some star bokeh with the smaller cutout shapes i made but it means the amount of photo is even less.
Is my aperture perhaps too small? the maximum it goes to is 4.0 but that's at 17mm.
any help would be appreciated.
Regards
Marco
Bokeh and Aperture
Hi Marco,
My guess would be that your dperture is not big enough. Ig you have a lens that goes to 1.8 it'd best. But I have also seen this working with 2.8 lenses.
Happy new year,
- udi
Great Tutorial!!
Thanks for sharing this.. I made snowflakes - which was pretty hard to cut out... but with a bit of patience, I think it paid off!!
what mode do I use for this?
what mode do I use for this?
BAsically you have two options
1. is manual with your aperture set to 1.8 or 2.8.
2. aperture priority - and again set your aperture to 1.8 or 2.8.
In both ways you ensure a wide aperture, which is the key ingredient for successful Bokeh-ing
- udi
ok, thanks. I'm a beginner
ok, thanks. I'm a beginner so I have no idea what I'm doing.
this is a pic of my x-mas tree, and I only have an aperture of 3.5.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o205/Shellyheartso/bokeh/try%201/IMG_...
i have the least steady out I've ever seen. ouch! is that and the aperture the reason why its not too heart-shaped or bokeh like?
i've gotta practice, obviously.
Ouch, I can tell you one
Ouch, I can tell you one thing for sure. You need a tripod. I use a tripod and a timer to take pictures of lights, so I don't get that streamy effect. Even pushing the button can shake the camera enough to make a bunch of little streams.
Hope I helped a bit!
Wow. What an awesome
Wow. What an awesome failure. You might not have achieved what you meant to, but that is a pretty wild picture. Looks like the tree is made of noodles.
Fantastic, thanks!
I made this one:

And had a lot of fun:

And replaced the snow crystal with other stuff as well. I really like all the hearts on the ground.

Full report on my blog:
http://eirikso.com/2008/01/08/an-impressive-yet-simple-photographic-effe...
My heart bokeh
Bokeh is cool
I'll definitely try this... this is a very neat trick... I'm a newbie so I explore my DSLR a lot...
My Cat with footprint bokeh
It really works and great! Thanks for the useful tips!
I love it!
The cat looks content and the paw prints are so cute. Great idea and great capture!
Plus: He reminds me of my cat. :-)
Bokeh
So, I have no clue, can this be done with your basic digital camera, or just a higher quality camera as shown?
Bokeh and P&S
Hi Victoria,
The main contributer to the nice bokeh effect is the large aperture. Since most point and shoot are capable of f/2.8 there is a good chance it will work.
I suggest spending about five minutes for making the test. nothing to loose.
- udi
problems...
I tried this effect tonight with my D80. My lens is an 18-135...I made the filter used a heart shaped hole puncher to punch a single heart in the middle. All my shots all blacked out completely except for the single heart shape (i used it in front of traffic lights so I'd have different colors). Do I need to move the taped ends of my bokeh so it meets the 50mm mark instead of all the way down to 18mm? Any suggestions?
I love this idea and can't wait to get it to work!
re problems...
I have been trying this with a p&s and Cokin precut frames. No luck, so I read everything I could about it, and the effect is obviously related to the shape of the aperture. In a regular camera the size of the aperture and shape of the blades that make the aperture (a hexagon I spose) define the bokeh.
So....
You need to make a shape that is basically smaller than the size of the aperture you are using. On the p&s the aperture is artificially small as the sensor is small. On the p&s all I see is a big black frame with a heart shaped hole. But if I take the same precut frame and sttick it on my analogue SLR - hey presto, no more unsightly frame, just a regular picture and heart shaped bokeh.
So....
Make your aperture as large as possible, and just keep trying smaller holes. It sounds crazy because you are allowing less and less light in, but when your hole-size and your cameras internal aperture line up then like magic the frame will disappear and you get images like those above.
Wow! Perfect idea! Must
Wow! Perfect idea! Must try!!!!
love this tutorial!
love this tutorial!
Can you do this on a P&S or only SLR?
Just wantedto know if this was possible to achevie on a Point and Shoot or if it can only be acheived on a DSLR. I have a Canon A630
Thanks
Awesome. =w=
My friend saw this and showed it to me. We tried it out. =w=
This is my favorite so far:

8D
Just a quick thought. One of
Just a quick thought. One of the things i noticed when buy a new lens recently was that the quality of Bokeh on more expensive lenses was highlighted by the smoother edges around "circles of confusion"
Could you simply create a "mask" of a circle to produce smoother circles? or am I simplifying the issue somewhat?
Adam
my attempt!
thanks so much for this tutorial, i had a ton of fun with it and it inspired me no end! heres my first attempt, with my 6 year old as the model! :)
Great idea!
This photo is lovely. Your idea worked out well! Congratulations! :-)
Make!
Hey, this post got written up on the Make Blog here:
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/04/diy_create_your_own_bokeh.html
Nice!
--Zeke
nicephotomag.com
I think it's Aperture Shadow (a.k.a. Lens Flare)
Hi, I'm sorry to shift things back to terminology, but I think the main effect you're getting from this is to reshape the aperture shadows / lens flare. Aperture shadows are created when you have sources of light that are out of focus, and they take on the shape of the aperture in the lens. In most SLR lenses, the aperture has between five and eight blades, hence the aperture shadows that look like a pentagon, hexagon or whatever, but with slightly curved sides. In this case, you're opening up the in-lens aperture as wide as it will go, and you're restricting the light with another aperture that has a different shape. Therefore, it casts a shadow with the other shape.
Check out the "Flare" entry on the following web page:
http://www.photographytips.com/page.cfm/2011
This page is also good:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/lens-flare.htm
Generally, when people are talking about bokeh, they're referring to the way an out-of-focus background looks. Sometimes the out-of focus areas are better defined, and sometimes they're a mushy blur. To my knowledge, this is much more affected by the number of lens elements and their configuration, than the shape of the aperture. (When a Nikon 50 f/1.4 and a Nikon 50 f/1.8 are wide open, their apertures are pretty much perfect circles, but their bokeh looks very different. Even stopped down to the same aperture, their bokeh is different, though they both have seven diaphragm blades.) Given that bokeh is used to refer to out-of-focus areas in general, aperture shadows might be included in the category of bokeh, but if you're talking about the bright hearts, stars, or whatever created by out-of-focus light sources, I think many photographers would call these aperture shadows or lens flare. I'm not sure how the aperture shape would affect out-of-focus background elements that aren't bright light sources.
I appreciated what the gentleman said earlier about circles of confusion, but I think that has more to do with the physics phenomenon of diffraction, which usually applies when your aperture is small enough to approach the wavelength of the light. Pinhole cameras deal with this a lot. Here's a good article an diffraction and circles of confusion: http://www.earthboundlight.com/phototips/diffraction-small-apertures.htm...
By the way, great job to everyone who is experimenting and being creative with this technique. Having fun and being creative is what photography is all about!
Would the same thing work with f/3.5?
This trick is very informative and exciting, thus would like to know if it'll work with a higher f-stop?
i'm having trouble with this
i'm having trouble with this effect. i don't know what should be the size of the hole and stuff. wheneve i do this, i only get the frame.
Some thoughts on cut out size
The relationship between f-stop, focal length and the diameter of the lens opening is as follows:
f-stop = focal length / diameter of lens opening
Thus a 50mm lens with an iris diameter of 25mm has an aperture of 50 / 25 = f2.0
Using this you can calculate the size of your aperture for any Av/focal length combination.
diameter of lens opening = focal length / f-stop
e.g. 50/1.8 = 27.8mm
this should give you a good starting point for the size of your cut outs.
I think you will need to apply the focal length of the lens without the multiplier for your camera, so for a 1/18th inch format point and shoot you will need to divide the lens 35mm equivalent FL by about 5 (so a camera of this format set to, a 35mm eqiv. of, 50mm has an actual focal length of about 10mm so assuming you can get an aperture of 1.8 the lens opening is in the region of 5.5mm).
Probably the limiting factor for larger f numbers and short focal length P&S lens will be achieving a background that is far enough out of focus, maybe try getting some space between subject and background.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor#Crop_factor_of_point-and-shoot_...
http://www.lavideofilmmaker.com/cinematography/f-stops-focal-length-lens...
Nice effect
This is a simple but nice effect, also easy to obtain.
tom
Thank you...
...so much for this great tip!
BTW I love the dog! :D
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