The latest data from BCN retail shows some interesting results of how the mirrorless market is looking lately in Japan. The image above shows sales volume for the top 5 selling full-frame mirrorless cameras in Japan through March and early April, with the Sony A7III growing in popularity against its suffering competition. The Canon EOS R, Canon EOS RP, Nikon Z6, and the A7III’s older sibling, the Sony A7II.
The Sony A7II & 28-70mm kit is currently on massive discount at B&H. They’ve dropped the price from the A7II kit’s regular $1,598 down to a mere $998. That’s almost a 40% discount. But it’s not just the camer and lens. The kit also comes with a 32GB 90MB/sec SanDisk Extreme memory card, a spare battery and an external charger.
If you are using one of the Sony A7X system as a stills camera, you are probably familiar with the EVF. It’s that little monitor at the back of the camera that shows you what the exposure looks like depending on exposure settings.
Of course, you can also set the monitor to show you a constant “proper” exposure regardless of the camera setting. You can decide on this behavior using the “Live View Display: Setting Effect On/Off” menu. When you are at Setting Effect On, the EVF will match hour exposure settings, kinda giving you a preview of your soon-to-be-exposed photo. When you are at Setting Effect Off, the camera will give you a constant exposure. Now Rob Hall has an issue with the third option…
When you add a strobe, or a Sony compatible trigger though, the camera will move into a new mode and show you what it thinks a “proper” exposed subject will be, if you used the flash correctly. Sadly, you have no control over this override and once a strobe is introduced, you are stuck with this method of EVF display.
Making the decision to go full frame is an easy one for some people. Full frame cameras offer a shallower depth of field for a given aperture & field of view combination. They also tend to be the cameras with the best high ISO performance. But most people don’t have an unlimited budget. So, what’s the best full frame DSLR under $2,000?
That’s what Jay P Morgan wanted to figure out when he put the venerable Canon 5D Mark III up against the Sony A7II and the shiny new Canon 6D Mark II. Rather than just bleat on about specs, this video is a look at how the cameras compare in the real world, and how each affects the final result. Note that the 5DIII is technically over $2K, but they can be found used for much less.
Shortly after releasing a bunch of software updates for their cameras and lenses, Sony releases some more to fix some of the reported problems. There are now firmware updates for six of their cameras: A9, A7rII, A7sII, A7II, A6500, and A6300. They are aimed at fixing the overheating issue that was recently reported, as well as the so-called “Star Eater” issue.
DIYP has seen its share of interviews, aside our regular work we’ve been to over 10 shows including the latest Photokina. We need a rig that is robust, easy to carry around, and that adapts to various conditions. This rig has gone through many changes over the years, this is what it is now.
Until today I’d known my Sony A7II could handle the shadow world, but I could never bring myself to push it. Mainly out of fear, no actually entirely from fear of losing the image. Recently I had the absolute pleasure of working at Rebecca Bathory’s place I decided to test the range once and for all.
On Vimeo, Rusty Sanoian explains that the footage was captured using the Sony A7R II in a Nauticam housing, using the Sony F4 16-35 lens, Sony 28 F2 lens with the Sony 16mm Fisheye converter and a Magic Filter.
A little about me,
First, I’m a wedding photographer based in Melbourne, Australia.
Second, I’m a HUGE fan of large aperture lenses. I shoot every lens almost 100% of the time at the maximum aperture possible. At any given wedding, over 90% of my photos are taken with 35mm F1.4, 85mm F1.2, and 200mm F2.0, each at its widest aperture setting. I’m also one of the few people who use F1.2/F1.4 for group shots.
I also have a Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens, beautiful, beautiful piece of glass, image quality is extraordinary, but I still find the aperture a bit tiny ?? That’s why I bought the Sony A7 II + Mitakon 50mm F0.95 combo, because I just simply have to have the largest aperture possible that is within my wallet depth.
I get criticised for this a lot: “What if you want to vary the DOF?”, “What if you want multiple subjects in focus?” “You’re one of those newbs who think aperture is everything” etc. blah blah