Shooting directly into the sun whether it is sunrise or sunset often results in that some areas around the sun are clipped and we get these rather harsh edges in our sky. Even when shooting bracketed or underexposing for the highlights we may not achieve a pleasing result around the strongest light in a scene.
For all those who are reading the title of this article and thinking to themselves, “What the crap is Cyberpunk?” … Well, according to the dictionary it is, “A genre of science fiction set in a lawless subculture of an oppressive society dominated by computer technology.” Just think “Blade Runner” and you’ve got the gist of it. As much as I love (and will obviously always love) to create stereotypical fantasy art, I’ve recently been super inspired to create artwork that leans on Cyberpunk themes. What’s not to love about neon lights, shiny leather, sunglasses at night, glowing technology, and in-your-face vibrant colors popping out of the dark moodiness of a dystopian futuristic city!?
Shooting with a shallow depth of field has become so popular in the last few years that it’s almost become a cliché. But it remains something that’s very much in demand. Fast f/1.4 and f/1.2 lenses can be extremely expensive, though, and so very difficult for people to achieve with their f/slow-slower kit lenses, especially if working with APS-C or Micro Four Thirds sensors.
In this video, Unmesh Dinda from PiXImperfect shows us a way to simulate shallow depth of field in Photoshop using the Iris Blur filter on a smart object, with a neat tip to offer a lot more control over the Iris Blur filter than you might’ve realised it offered.
To shoot directly into the sun is both challenging and fun. Challenging because it can be difficult to control the light and, not least, our images are very often marred by sunflare. One simple way of avoiding flare is to shoot an extra exposure with one finger or more obscuring the sun.
Admittedly, it happens that I forget to follow that simple step, or I am too lazy or I believe that clouds or mist sufficiently diffuse the light so that the lens won’t produce any flare. In the example below I believed that mist would prevent any flare. I was wrong something which became very evident when examining the raw file in Lightroom.
There are a few ways for changing colors in Photoshop, and it’s not hard to do it. But when you want to change white into another color, it won’t always look realistic. In this video, Unmesh Dinda of PiXimperfect teaches you how to turn white into any color and make it look natural. And what’s more, you can even use this method to turn white into black.
If you want to add both contrast and a punch of color to your photos Unmesh Dinda of PiXimperfect shows you a technique you might want to try out. In this video, he teaches you how to use Color Burn and Color Dodge blending modes together to quickly boost contrast and color at the same time.
Slightly missing the focus on the eyes when shooting portraits – this has happened to me more times than I’d like to admit. But what if you photograph a client and they choose one of these slightly out-of-focus photos? In this quick tutorial from KelbyOne, Kristina Sherk will show you how to fix it in a few simple steps.
When increasing saturation in Photoshop, it happens that we get a little carried away and end up overdoing it. In this video, Unmesh Dinda of PiXimperfect proposes an interesting method for increasing saturation, yet keeping the image natural-looking. It takes only a few seconds, and it does make a great result.
If you shoot outdoor portraits during Christmas season in Northern Hemisphere, your subjects’ skin may look red due to the cold. But there’s a quick and effective way to fix it in Photoshop. Unmesh Dinda of PiXimperfect will show you a quick tip for removing the red patches from skin, and it will take you less than a minute to do it.