Product photography can be a lot of fun, especially when you start to experiment with light painting. In this video, photographer Mark Duffy shows us how he does his long exposure product photography using the new KYU 6 LED lights and Godox MS300 strobes in the studio on a pair of trainers (or “sneakers”, for those of you in the US).
Astrophotography allows you to capture some spectacular images of the night sky, from milky way images, star trail images, and all the way up to deep-sky images. Each requires a slightly different shooting technique to capture them correctly.
But some things don’t change, you do them every time to give yourself the best chance of getting the image you planned for. Below are 11 tips that will help you get started capturing some amazing night pictures.
Have you ever seen the long exposure image using 10-stops ND filters? They are visually energetic and dynamic, due to the motion blur caused by the moving clouds over a long duration of exposure. It is common that most people trying to guess the exposure time when using these high strength ND filters, like 10-stops ND filters.
However, I bet you don’t want to stand in the cold and windy beach for a 5 minutes long exposure shot during sunrise or sunset and find out that your shot is over-exposed or under-exposed, and then retake with a minute more or less, keep trial-and-error by adjusting the exposure, and eventually the light is gone before you figure out the perfect exposure!
Long exposures are a lot of fun to shoot and experiment with. Although they can take some time to create (they are long exposures, after all), you’re never quite sure what you’re going to get until it’s finally over and the shutter closes. But they’re a lot easier to shoot than most people think. In this video, Pierre Lambert breaks down the process into simple steps.
One of the most frequently asked questions I get is how I shoot long-exposure photos from the cockpit and how they end up sharp, despite flying at roughly 950kmh / 500kts through the air. I will try to answer that question in more detail, going through the process and challenges step by step. Hopefully it sheds some light (pun intended) on the techniques I use and for the pilot-photographers among us some valuable and easy-to-use tips for your next night-flight.
Since the recent release of my new Long Exposure Portraits tutorial from RGG EDU, I’ve been inundated with messages and questions relating to the light painting section.
Questions like: ‘What’s the best light painting tool to use? ‘Where can I get them?’ ‘Which ones did you use in your video?
Long exposure photography is tricky, especially in the studio when you’re trying to combine multiple light sources within a single frame that have very different brightnesses and colour temperatures etc.
So although I believe this article will be very useful to many of you, there will most certainly be others that perhaps have little to no experience with long exposure photography and as such this article might seem to brush over certain long exposure lighting ideas.
Recently, I posted a video on my YouTube channel on profiling my phone’s cameras. I do this because I like shooting DNG and then processing on the desktop. But the video raised a question from a couple of people about whether the X-Rite ColorChecker could fix the colour cast with long exposures using neutral density filters.
It’s something I’ve wondered myself. I don’t really shoot a whole lot of long exposures with neutral density, so I never got around to testing the idea. I have now, though. In this video, I compare three pieces of glass for long exposures. The B+W 10 stop ND, a very cheap Andoer variable ND and a piece of welding glass.