Fall is the perfect time for photographing woodland. However, woodland can be more challenging to capture than other landscape scenes. I personally struggle with it the most and I’m never quite happy with the photos I take in the forest. If you’re anything like me, Christian Möhrle of The Phlog Photography has a video you just have to watch. He’ll give you four tips that will help you take your woodland photos to a higher level. So let’s watch it and apply these tips while there are still gorgeous colorful leaves out there in the forest!
I am hopelessly pragmatic. I feel this the most when I am out with the camera and conditions are very favorable. My approach then is to shoot as many compositions as possible in shortest possible time. Depending on my mood, this may result in fits of anger when I turn a camera wheel in the wrong direction, or when the tripod legs won’t extend as fast as I desire.
I am trying to point out that I am all over the place when mother nature smiles at me,…..the rabbit approach.
I know that many others like to take it slowly at a scene and repeatedly shoot the same composition until they feel they have nailed it. For me such an approach would lead to a heart attack.
My friend, Carl, and I visited Jotunheimen in July 2019. We couldn’t have asked for better conditions. Light and colors were outstanding. I entered the rabbit approach mode. How much can you make out of a location in that modus operandi?
Landscape photography isn’t only about wide-angle lenses as we’ve seen before. You can use a wide range of lenses for landscape shots, from ultra-wide to really long, even over 200mm. But which one to pick? Nigel Danson has the answers you need. In this video, he’ll help you choose the ideal lens for different scenes and compositions.
Incorporating reflections in your shots is a great way to create balance, harmony and symmetry. What’s more, the reflection itself can become the foreground interest in your landscape shots. And just like all techniques, there are ways to master this one too. In this video, Mark Denney gives you five tips (and bonus tip) for getting perfect reflections in your landscape photos.
Having the scene focused front to back is one of the very important aspects of landscape photography. But more often than not, it’s pretty tricky to achieve it. In this video, Mads Peter Iversen shares some very useful tips and techniques for landscape photographers. They will help you get the entire scene in focus and achieve perfect front-to-back focus in every scenario.
I didn’t buy the Irix Blackstone 11mm f/4 because of its optical qualities even though they are more than satisfactory. Truth be told, I wanted to experience what it would be like to shoot ultra wide-angle (UWA) for the sheer fun of it.
There are plenty of reviews for this lens, so this article has a different aim. I will share some images and a few words on how it feels to use the lens. In addition, I will mention a few ideas on how to take advantage of the wide-angle distortion.
Even though this is a rectilinear lens there will be distortions. An UWA lens will stretch the edges, and it will diminish objects in the middle of the frame.
The Irix’ maximum angle of view is a whopping 126 degrees, so you have to be careful how you place both your and your tripod’s feet.
“One of the most appealing attributes of landscape photographs is sharpness from front to back. Everything is in sharp focus in the foreground, middle, and background, allowing the viewer to be pulled into the image as if they were standing right there.” – Max Foster
Generally speaking, sharpness throughout the image, that is from foreground to background, is far easier to achieve with an ultra-wide-angle lens (UWA) than with a tele. However, even wide-angle lenses have their limitations. If you place a UWA lens only a few centimeters from the foreground object, you can get it in focus. The background, however, will fall outside the depth of field and be blurred. The same goes if you focus on a very far object.
Waterfalls are a favorite subject of many landscape photographers. If you want to perfect your photos of this beautiful nature’s creation, then Mads Peter Iversen has something for you. In this video, he shares nine tips for photographing waterfalls. He covers different topics, from camera settings and shutter speed to practical tips in regard to filters and tripods, so I’m sure you’ll find it useful.
When it comes to nature photography, should you shoot on a tripod or hand-held? Let me share some personal stories and then I would love to get your opinion.
I shoot the vast majority of my images on a tripod. I am fully aware that I sacrifice some flexibility in the field. However, such an approach gives me sharp images with a horizon in level. I predominantly shoot during the golden hour. This entails that I often shoot exposures where the shutter is open way longer than if I was shooting in bright daylight. If possible, I also almost exclusively shoot at base ISO. Base ISO means that the sensor produces very little noise and peaks in terms of dynamic range. I know that with my sub-par hand-held technique I’ll probably ruin many images during golden hour due to handshake. Even vibration reduction activated can’t save me there.