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Is microcontrast your favourite photography blogger’s favourite myth?

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I write a series called the Glossary of Photographer’s Woo over on Medium, and am delighted to be here on DIY Photography to talk about microcontrast.

Lens design has improved pretty steadily over the last hundred years. That is to say, modern lenses resolve finer detail, render colours and contrast more deeply, and are generally more free from the defects of spherical distortion, chromatic aberration, and vignetting. These defects are all easily measurable, and in art reproduction and scientific photography, they are probably very important. But in creating art? To many photographers, our lenses have been more than good enough for a long time.

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This is what low contrast lens filters are and how you can use them in portraits

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As the name of the filter alludes to, these lens filters do indeed lower the overall contrast of a shot. To clarify what that means in relation to photography; these filters will reduce the darkness of the shadows by allowing light to bleed into them from surrounding highlights.

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FiLMiC Pro LogV2 update brings 12 stops of dynamic range and 140Mbps video footage

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The folks at FiLMiC Pro have released a new update that brings LogV2 to the app. It claims to offer up to 12 stops of dynamic range and provides footage bit rates as high as 140Mbps. Log first came to FiLMiC Pro in early 2017, but now it sees a pretty significant update.

According to the test video above from the iPhoneographers, LogV2 offers up to two and a half stops more dynamic range than the “natural” camera with the latest iPhone XS Max, and even the older iPhone SE and 6S see up to about a stop and a half increased dynamic range.

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How to use negative fill to create more dramatic shots

Photography is all about light. But just as much as that, it’s also about a lack of it. Shadows are just as important to your scene as the well lit areas, and they can really help to sell your story and add a lot of drama.

In this video, the guys of Aputure’s A Team walk us through using negative fill to help create that contrast and drama in your scene. And while they’re primarily talking about video, the same principle applies for stills, too.

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Contrast vs Phase Detection autofocus – What it means and why it matters.

Often, we hear much talk about the advantages and disadvantages of phase detection vs contrast-based autofocus systems. But not everybody knows what that means or why it matters. I had a rough idea, but I didn’t really understand it myself until I watched this video from photographer David Flores for B&H. In it, David explains how each of the two systems work, when it’s best to use one or the other, and how various camera AF systems work today using one or a combination of both methods.

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How to use complementary backgrounds to make subjects pop

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In the studio, making your subjects stand out from their background is relatively straightforward. Because you have control over everything. You choose what goes behind them, what lights you use, and where they go. Outdoors, though, these options aren’t always available to us. We have to work with what our environment provides. So, how can we get some separation between our subject and their background on location?

In this video from photographer Moose Winans, we hear what’s going through his mind when photographing things outdoors. What he’s looking for, and how he finds it. Some of it is backgrounds that complement the primary subject from a compositional standpoint. Other tips include using brightness and contrast to your advantage to make your subjects stand out.

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Sigma Art Lenses – Great glass, shitty bokeh.

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It’s died down a little now, but last year there was an insane craze surrounding the Sigma Art series lenses so much so that I actually ended up buying 2 of them, selling them, then borrowing them again in the future for other shoots when I had no money.

To be clear from the outset, I actually think the Sigma Art lenses kick serious ass, the sharpness, the focus ring, build quality, the price. They are “cheap enough” ($900 for 35mm f/1.4 or $950 for 50mm f/1.4) and give you some serious firepower in the lens department. But after all of this, after all of these wonderful points, I STILL sold the 50mm and the 35mm because of one key factor. I think the bokeh sucks.

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2 quick ways to add contrast without touching the contrast slider

By now if you have ever seen any of my images you will know I am a big fan of contrast! I Like to crank that shizzle up to 11! haha

So this weeks article is going to be short and straight to the point (hooray I hear you shout!)

I am going to show you two quick ways to add contrast to your image, that give two different results! When I say quick, I dont mean fiddling around with curves. I literally mean a couple of clicks and we are done!

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Back to Basics – Contrast

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In the last few weeks I’ve covered the basic exposure controls like aperture and shutter speed. I’ve also discussed the concept of depth of field as an important aspect of the subject in a picture. Continuing with the Back to Basics series, it is time to explore another important aspect of the picture – contrast. Contrast is the difference in tone in your picture. Specifically the difference between the brightest colors in the pictures (called highlights) to the darkest colors in the picture (called shadows). Usually talking about contrast goes hand in hand with talking about hard light and soft light.[Read More…]

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