3D printing has come such a long way in the last few years. As developments in printer design and software have progressed, it’s become a lot easier to make some pretty accurate prints. One photographer, though, Nick Sherlock, decided to test the limits of his 3D printer to make a 300mm long extension tube allowing him to extend the magnification of his Sigma 180mm f/3.5 APO Macro DG HSM lens.
Shooting through prisms and glass or crystals of all kinds of shapes has become quite popular over the past couple of years. Lensbaby even put out an entire new system recently based on them. But the humble triangular prism is still the most used amongst many photographers who shoot through them.
How long this particular trend will last or whether it’s here to stay, only time will tell. But for right now, for those who use them, they can be awkward to shoot with. They’re smooth and difficult to manipulate in front of your camera. So, photographer and engineer Bhautik Joshi decided to do something about it. He designed a 3D printable holder for them.
When I was first told “Hey, you should 3D print some of your photos” a couple of years, I thought they were mad. 3D print a photo? Then I did a little digging and found out that you can actually 3D print photographs. Sort of.
They’re called lithophanes, a pretty old technique that’s been around since the early 1800s. Of course, they didn’t have 3D printers back then, they made them out of porcelain. These days, though, we do, which makes them much easier to create. So, I finally got around to making some.
We thought with the Sony A6500 that the overheating issue days with Sony would be over, but apparently not. Eterprising user, Brian Windle, over on Thingiverse, however, has developed a solution. It’s a 3D printed bracket that houses a couple of USB-powered fans to blow cool air onto the back of the camera underneath the LCD.
Availability of 3D printers has opened new possibilities for creating all sorts of gadgets for photography. So, New Zealand-based photographer Nicholas Sherlock took advantage of his 3D printer to make himself an LED softbox. He designed it, printed and assembled it himself. It features a 3D-printed diffuser, honeycomb light shaper, and even rails on the bottom for adding mounts and accessories.
We’ve covered 3D printed lenses before, like this one from Mathieu Stern. But up until now, 3D printed lenses have mostly still used a glass element on the front. Printing clear plastic with a 3D printer at home just isn’t that easy. Some believed it impossible.
But it appears as though the problem might’ve been solved if Tomer Gluck’s tutorial at FennecLabs is anything to go by. He’s managed to create transparent 3D printed items at home using transparent ABS on a stock Original Prusa i3 3D printer.
I was inspired by Tim Binnion‘s work with the Game Boy Camera and a cheap cellphone tele lens. I figured I’d up the ante and design and build a full Canon EF Mount for my Game Boy Camera. The GBC has a sensor size of about 3.6mm² which seems equivalent to a 1/4″ sensor (Wikipedia). This gives the GBC a crop factor of about 10.81. With my 70-200 f4 mounted on a 1.4x extender, this gives me a max equivalent focal distance of about 200×1.4×10.81=3,026.8mm.
I’ve been getting into 3D printing quite a bit this year. Mostly with regard to how it can help me with my own photography and video challenges. One of the first things I did was to motorise my camera slider. Now, my own efforts in this realm are still quite basic, but while researching how others have overcome certain issues in this area, I came across this tutorial recently posted to Instructables by jjRobots.
It’s a tracking 2-axis motorised, mostly 3D printed camera slider. This means that it doesn’t just move the camera from one end of the slider to the other, but it also turns the camera. This way, your camera can move while remaining fixed on a specific target. And it’s all controlled from your smartphone – that app’s available for free, too.
I have my first 3D printer arriving next month. Ok, technically it’s a robot with a 3D printing head, but this is something I’m absolutely going to have to try. When it comes to regular prints, I just leave it up to my lab. They can produce them far less expensively and far more consistently than I can do at home. But this looks pretty cool. A 3D printed Lithophane.
Essentially, a lithophane a print which uses depth to mark the different brightness levels of your image. When it’s lit from behind, the thinner parts let through more light than the thicker parts. And so, the image comes to life. In this video from Daniel DeArco, we see exactly how it’s done.
Paul Kohlhaussen, a student from Richmond in London has created a fully functioning 3D printed camera. Paul took the best features from an array of costly high-end cameras and reverse engineered them into the camera of his dreams. Without the funds to afford the camera he needed to get the perfect shot he wanted and no knowledge of CAD, Paul taught himself everything from scratch when designing and building the eight components that make up the camera’s modular design.