Hacking Photography - one Picture at a time
Here is a great little project by Kevin Kadooka if you are starting out on photography and have good Arduino understanding, or if you are starting out on Arduino and have a solid understanding of photography :)
This solenoid based single leaf shutter is controlled by Arduino and can expose a sensor or film for anywhere between 1/125 to infinity at the press of a button. The exposure duration is controlled via a small potentiometer.[Read More…]
Texas based photographer Phil Warner was looking for the perfect robotic pano head. He did not find one so he made his own.
Phil runs 360photopro which kinda explains his need for a pano head. It does not, however, explain the beauty of the head he built.[Read More…]
If you’ve been following the blog for a while you know that there are some neat iPad/iPhone apps that create spatial drawings, like Holographium or Aurora Bulb for Android.
Wulfrano Moreno shares on how he achieved a similar project using Peggy, an Arduino-based LED PegBoard.
Taking the photograph above required a combination of several skills: A bit of electricity engineering, some open source enthusiasm and a bit of light painting know how.
This image evolved as I started experimenting with light painting. At first I started creating some shots using the typical DIY “orb tool”. As I got more drawn to the subject I came across an amazing video of some guys light-painting using an iPad.[Read More…]
If you’re reading DIYP for a while you probably know that High Speed Photography is not about high shutter speeds. Au contraire. It is about shooting very long exposures in bulb mode, and using a strobe to freeze the action with a split second light.
This means that once you have a setup read to go, you turn off the lights. go back to your setup and pop the balloon / break the glass / shoot the bullet. Kinda messy and uncomfortable. Ask Edward Horsford, the exploding balloons magician.
Photographer Matt Richardson came up with a better to do it. Matt was already Using an Arduino as the triggering device for the strobe. It only made sense to Let the Arduino turn off the lights and open the camera shutter once the setup was ready.
In the video after the jump, Matt explains this concept, and shared the circuit to make this magic happen.[Read More…]
Optical Slaves are the simplest (and cheapest for the most part) method for using off camera flashes.
The principle is simple, when the optical slave sees another flash fire, it fires too. Kinda like yawning. Once one of goes, it is catchy.
Of course optical slaves have their limitations, one of which is that they are too dump to understand the difference between a flash and a pre-flash. There are a few more limitations to optical dumb slaves, but this post is about overcoming the pre-flash issue with a cool gizmo called Arduino.[Read More…]
It’s been a little while since I built my UV Box but sometimes, life gets in the middle of our fun projects! Now, I’ve finally tested the UV Box and I can say that it works great. I made a test with two different negatives: a very soft flower subject lighted with painted light and a very sharp subject lighted with a very contrasty light. I wanted to see how this printing process deals with different subjects.
I proceeded with some step tests to find the corrected exposure for my negatives. I did 2 seconds steps and as you can see in the video, I was a little optimistic with my first strip of 2,4,6,8 seconds of exposure. In the end, the correct exposure resulted in 11 minutes.
We’ve seen – and featured – a lot of film cameras here on DIYP. Everything from 35mm, through medium format and even up to large format, not to mention more pinholes than we can count. But those cameras are usually of the stills variety. Cameras for photography. This one, though, from Yuta Ikeya is a little different. This one is for shooting movies, with 35mm film stock.
You don’t normally think of 3D printing as being a good use for such complex camera systems, and while that’s true to a degree, modern technology allows a few workarounds to overcome potential issues. Like using an Arduino to control the timing of a DC motor to drive a mechanically synchronised gear and cam system instead of more traditional methods of ancient cinema cameras.
This is a Gameboy Camera. A device that turns any Gameboy into a camera.
Released in 1998 and retailing for $50 (equivalent to $85 in today’s money) it was the smallest digital camera on the market at the time.
It works just like any other game for the Gameboy, it just slots into the back. And just like that, you’ve turned your handheld gaming console into a fully-fledged point-and-shoot camera. It was brilliant as the Gameboy’s large screen was used as the viewfinder.
I was always told: if you have to do something, do it with your own style! So here is my Italian style UV box to expose the papers coated with antique photographic processes.
At the origin of photography, many technologies of printing required exposure to UV light. In those times, the sun was the perfect source and the exposure was usually made outdoor. But the quantity of UV light from the sun can vary a lot in different seasons or with different weather. Plus, baby it’s cold outside now in winter! For this reason, I decided to build a UV Box.
We’ve seen all kinds of cool projects with the old Game Boy camera: from portraits to astrophotography; from color photos to Game Boy webcam. Conor Merrigan modified his Game Boy camera to use Cannon DSLR lenses and used it to take some awesome car racing photos.
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