Like an infinite number of monkeys on an infinite number of typewriters, an infinite number of photographers snapping an infinite number of photos will sooner or later produce something worth viewing.
But who wants to be just another monkey?
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Like an infinite number of monkeys on an infinite number of typewriters, an infinite number of photographers snapping an infinite number of photos will sooner or later produce something worth viewing.
But who wants to be just another monkey?
When packing for a long-haul trip I did not want to take a computer along – both because of carrying weight and extra information across borders. I have a HyperDrive UDMA-2 device, but I do not like it. Small screen and very slow and clumsy interface kill it for me.
Naturally I thought to use the Nexus 10 tablet – it is light, has gorgeous screen, and reasonable storage. After cleaning all family videos off of it, it has a reasonable 27 Gb. More importantly, you can connect a hard drive to it – so the tablet becomes an in-field viewer and a transition device, dumping photos to multiple backup drives.
I have to tell upfront that it did not turn out simple and so purpose of this is post to make it simpler for others. Unfortunately, much of the success depends on just right software versions working together. Since I got this setup working, I disabled app auto-updates until return from the trip. This setup uses the Android version 4.2.2. Turns out there are some application compatibility issues introduced by Android 4.3 yet to be resolved as of July 2013.
Picture this. It is early morning a day before Yom Kippur. A Hassid walks into a side room at the synagogue, greets the Rabbi at his chair and the collector next to him. The Hassid quickly scans the room. He also notices me. I am not sure if he is simply ignoring my presence or actually acknowledging it. I cringe at the corner and make an effort to blend with the wall behind me. I disappear. Silently, the Hassid pulls his shirt and Tzitzit from his pants up to his shoulders. He places both arms on a 2 by 4 and starts chanting verses.
The collector picks up a whip and starts lashing the Hassid on his back. This is what I was waiting for. I stood up, aimed the camera and took a few pictures. I embraced the camera to my chest and cringed again. The Hassid took 39 lashes, while continuously chanting. When the thing was done, the shirt went back in the pants, the Hassid murmured a quiet blessing to the Rabbi and left the room.
Today’s HD-SLRs are capable of taking 60fps images at mind blowing resolution. But looking for their ancestors reveals that the first portable “motion picture” camera was actually based on a rifles packed not with bullets, but with a plate of film.
The design of the first Chronograph (this is how they called it) was made by French scientist Étienne-Jules Marey and debuted at 1882 by the name of Fusil Photographique or photographic ‘rifle’.
“There is more than one way to skin a cat, and there is more than one way to bare bulb your strobe”. (Udi Tirosh, 2013).
Most hot shoe strobes have a fundamental difference from monoblocks or other “studio strobes”.
Studio strobes are “bare bulb” which means that the light they emit goes everywhere. Most (if not all) hot shoe strobes are directional, meaning that most of the light they emit goes forward.
Where you think about it, it makes sense. Hot shoe strobes are primarily used on camera (well, at least originally) and the main point of putting them on camera is to light distant subjects. This is why they are built to throw as much light forward. Even if today many photographers use them off camera, they are still designed and built mainly for throwing light forward.
The front of a hot shoe strobe has to be “bullet proof” as they are usually tossed in the bag, hence a plastic enclosure. Try throwing a studio flash in your bag, the unprotected xenon tube would break in a heart beat.
Studio strobes on the other hand, are almost never used without a modifier. To throw the light forward, you place a reflector on the head. But having the light go all ways makes them far more versatile when it comes to other light shaping tools like softboxes, beauty dishes, and actually anything that needs a wider dispersion of light.
This difference between hot shoe strobes and studio strobes can be a bummer for off camera flashers. Almost every modifier (maybe snoot and grid excluded) benefit from having a bare bulb flash.
Here are 3 different approaches for barebulbing a hot shoe strobe. Going from least efficient to most efficient, and from dumb-proof to please don’t do this unless you are a certified electrician.
Alan Sailer likes to blow stuff up. And when I say blow stuff I mean the good old fashion way. With a canon, custom made air gap strobes and a dedicated controller. After spending a great deal of time on his flickr stream, I asked him a few questions.
We have done quite a bit of High Speed Photography here on DIYP, but never took it from a step by step approach starting with the basics and moving up to elaborate setups. This is going to change today.
Starting today, and for every Monday in the next few weeks, high speed photographer Brian Davies is going to go show us the ropes on high speed photography. Brian is just your ordinary guy who loves to play with high speed, so the series is not going to be exclusive for lots-of-gear-super-techy-rich photographers, it is also aimed at the entry level togs who want to get some hands on with high speed. Actually there is very little that you would need other than a camera, a strobe, and a tripod to start with. All the high speed electronics can be DIYed if you have some basic soldering skills, or bought if you have a bit of extra green in your pocket. (Actually, for the triggers we show in this series, no soldering is neeed, they are on breadboard based).
And now, I step off and give the floor to Brian.
When talking about strobes we usually go for power, one of the first things we ask is what is the GN on the little guy, or how many WS on the big bro. That is usually the questions when you want to light more.
But what if you want to light fast? what if you are trying to freeze the action. A water drop crown or a popping balloon a good example of something slow that you want to freeze, and a bullet will be an example of something fast that you want to stop in mid air.
Strobist has a great theoretical discussion about two relevant time indicators: T0.5 and T1.0. In a nutshell, T.5 is the time it takes your flash to output half of the light, and T1.0 is the time it takes your flash to output 90% of the light.
The lower the power is, the faster the pop should be.
Over the last few days, Flickr Explore has been sizzling with multiple pictures of Vincent Riemersma featuring splashes in wineglasses.
We asked him to explain how he made these pictures and was willing to share this information. He kindly agreed.
Yay!
London based photographer Edward Horsford photographs balloons in a very unique way. He freezes them as the leave his hands to explode.
The pictures are taken with a “high tech” DIYed sound trigger, Strobes, and one rusty stick.
The following post which bounces from interview to tech details outlines the way to take such photographs.
Dave Williams is an accomplished travel photographer, writer, and best-selling author from the UK. He is also a photography educator and published Aurora expert. Dave has traveled extensively in recent years, capturing stunning images from around the world in a modified van. His work has been featured in various publications and he has worked with notable brands such as Skoda, EE, Boeing, Huawei, Microsoft, BMW, Conde Nast, Electronic Arts, Discovery, BBC, The Guardian, ESPN, NBC, and many others.
John Aldred is a photographer with over 20 years of experience in the portrait and commercial worlds. He is based in Scotland and has been an early adopter - and occasional beta tester - of almost every digital imaging technology in that time. As well as his creative visual work, John uses 3D printing, electronics and programming to create his own photography and filmmaking tools and consults for a number of brands across the industry.
Dunja Djudjic is a multi-talented artist based in Novi Sad, Serbia. With 15 years of experience as a photographer, she specializes in capturing the beauty of nature, travel, and fine art. In addition to her photography, Dunja also expresses her creativity through writing, embroidery, and jewelry making.
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