There are different ways to remove or reduce noise, and there are also ways of removing watermarks from images. But Nvidia has recently introduced a deep learning-based approach which has learned to fix photos by looking only at corrupted photos.
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Sometimes, when we’re out with our cameras, the light is a little lower than we’d like and we need to ramp up our ISO to compensate. But raising the ISO introduces noise. Potentially a whole lot of noise. And while you can never really get the image to look as good as it would have if you’d been able to shoot it at a low ISO, there are things you can do.
In this video, Unmesh Dinda from PiXimperfect shows us how to use the noise reduction tools in Lightroom to help reduce the impact of noise. This technique also applies to using Adobe Camera Raw. He then goes into Photoshop to illustrate how we can further bring back some of that lost detail.
There’s plenty of great applications and plugins out there that will help you reduce noise in your images. Some are standalone apps while others are plugins. But there’s a lot you can do straight from within Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) and Lightroom without all that.
This video from Blake Rudis at F64 Academy talks us through the noise reduction features in ACR. As it uses the same raw engine as Lightroom, the same settings and techniques work the same way there, too. So, if you haven’t really dived into it before, or you’re relying on 3rd party apps, here’s how it all works.
When it comes to noise in photos, we are pretty accustomed to using DeNoising tools. When it comes to video, there are similar options that apply that same logic to footage, rather than to a single frame.
The folks over at Film Riot took two of the more popular options, Neat Video and Denoiser II (both at about $100) for a test drive and compare the results. Ryan talks about a third plugin called Dark Energy which he says surpasses them both, but sadly, it fell of the comparison for costing $100 more.
So, I’ve had this idea bouncing around in my head for a bit, and figured it might help me to get off my ass and actually try it out if I described my thought process.
I’ve been wanting to get some ND filters to experiment with daytime long exposures for a while now. The problem is that I’m lazy. So when I say “for a while now”, I really mean that it’s been like 3 years.
I had previously written about using median stacks to remove noise from an image, as an easy way to remove non-static objects from a scene, and to create interesting artwork. It’s those last two things that got me thinking…[Read More…]
Over the last few years I was obsessed with macro work. I decided to take a short break and experience/experiment with other forms of photography. I had a short (and enjoyable) period of underwater photography which ended abruptly when I introduced my beloved 60D unprotected to the ocean (not as enjoyable). After that unpleasant experience, I decided to stay away from large water habitats and expand my horizons by driving off to the desert and shooting the night skies (pun totally intended).
I put the new Sony A7III mirrorless camera through its paces for the features and functions we need to shoot the night sky. Sony’s A7III camera has enjoyed rave reviews since its introduction earlier in 2018. Most tests focus on its superb auto exposure and auto focus capabilities that rival much more costly cameras, including Sony’s own A7RIII and A9.
For astrophotography, none of those auto functions are of any value. We shoot everything on manual. Indeed, the ease of manually focusing in Live View is a key function.
Yes, it’s possible. I did indeed capture what you see above in one shot. Although some of the Internet seems to disagree, it’s true. What you see above is the Milky Way, the moon, Mars, Saturn, an iridium flare, and lava from the Kilauea Volcano of Hawaii. I took this image during my visit to the Big Island of Hawaii in September of 2016 to document the 61G lava flow. I never imagined I’d walk away with such a scene, but the camera gods were watching over me that day. So, before this image gets torn apart by those who think it’s not real, I’d like to present the RAW image to you below. This image was shot on a Nikon D810 with a Nikon 14-24mm lens. Settings were F2.8, 25” at ISO 2500.