DIYPhotography.net

A while back we posted a guide that shows how to build a TTL cord extender using Cat 5e Ethernet cables and plugs.

YouTube member Matthewrichey made a short video describing the process which is worth checking out.

If you are more proficient with a credit card than a cable RJ45 plug crimper you can get a pretty long (10m) TTL cord for about $36 at your friendly online book store.

If any of you folks out there had a try, I would love to hear how long you got your cable before commands to the strobe stopped working.

Lastly, if you wondered why you would need a long TTL cord, check out Syl Areana's super smart way of using a Canon TTL master strobe inside a softbox to control other Canon strobes OR David Hobby's Strobe on a Rope self-assist way of off camera flashing.

[How to make a adjustable flash sync cord with cat5 cable via cheesycam] Click to continue ›

Usually where danger is involved we simply say something like "please know what you're doing" or "If you need to ask how this is done, this is not for you", but for this particular piece, I thought a bigger warning should be in place. And I darn well mean it.

WARNING: This article involves dealing with High Voltage, up to 300v, which is stored in big capacitors. THIS VOLTAGE CAN KILL YOU. Never touch any of the components and always discharge the capacitor before working on it. Always keep in a well insulated project enclosure.

BY FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS YOU AGREE TO BE THE ONLY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MIGHT BE CAUSED BY DOING SO. WORK CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW WARNINGS.

If you think this warning was not bold, big or strong enough, please read it again. (I do realize this may end up in a loop for folks who think this is as easy as a learn how to solder project. That's the point)

This article will help you understand the basics of how a flash circuit is working, and the second part will show you how to build your own optical triggered portable flash rated at 50 watt/seconds! Click to continue ›

When you take a portrait today you are probably using a flash or a small strobe. But what would you do if you took that portrait 150 years ago? You would probably use flash powder.

It's a nice toy for all the fire loving togs out there that are not really concerned about burning their back yard (or eyebrows). If you take away the fact that you can not actually get a nice batch today (well, at least without having the fed go down on you) I am still not sure you'd wanna use that. It is highly flammable, totally uncontrollable and give out a nice puff of smoke. (And way slower than any modern strobe)

Maurice Ribble of TPB, did a little comparison to see how flash powder compares with a 580 EXII. results are surprising.

[Flash Powder Photography on TBP] Click to continue ›

When talking about strobes we usually go for power, one of the first things we ask is what is the GN on the little guy, or how many WS on the big bro. That is usually the questions when you want to light more.

But what if you want to light fast? what if you are trying to freeze the action. A water drop crown or a popping balloon a good example of something slow that you want to freeze, and a bullet will be an example of something fast that you want to stop in mid air.

Strobist has a great theoretical discussion about two relevant time indicators: T0.5 and T1.0. In a nutshell, T.5 is the time it takes your flash to output half of the light, and T1.0 is the time it takes your flash to output 90% of the light.

The lower the power is, the faster the pop should be. Click to continue ›

One of the things we are trying to deal here on DIYP is making ring lights without going into all the mess and (possible) danger that goes into wiring and sawing. Till now, we've were only half there with some IKEA based rigs that provided some nice bulb support, but we never made it all the way through to a really each hack.

Videographer Joel Loukus came up with the missing link. By using multiple Christmas lights around a wire frame he built The WreathLight. A Christmas Lights based ring light. (Dont miss out on the chi-ching sound, it really makes the light quality that much better). Click to continue ›

If you're an avid Strobist, you know that the Strobist community is all about off-camera flash. In fact your submitted images can be removed from the pool if you use an on camera flash (there are exceptions to anything, of course, but as a general thumb rule this is how it goes).

The only exception allowed is "FWIW, on-camera flash is fine if it is used to trigger other off-camera flashes", I assume that this exception was set in place for those who can not afford wireless triggers or only have one slave flash with an optical sensor.

This thing is that triggering a slave with an on board flash may impact the lighting of an image. even if you set the master to its lowest output three is some light coming from that flash.

Now, it is it fill you are after, this may actually be a conscious decision, but if you want no flash at all coming from on camera, there is a simple hack to make only optical sensors magically see the master's light burst. I call it The Dark Master. buehahahahahahHAHAHAHA! Click to continue ›

A few weeks back we shared a tutorial on how to convert your old film camera into a background projector (AKA Cookie Projector). Seems like this project grabbed a lot of attention, with one comment that kept coming back over and over: "Why Kill The Poor Camera?"

Even a reference from Strobist seems to hint that if one goes through the agonizing process of un-hinging the back of a camera, they should "use it for good".

Of course the initial intent was to use a camera that is unserviceable (as RC Hill did with the project we featured), yet, there had to be another way, a way that does not involve un-hinging or pliering the back of a camera. And indeed there is. (or actually Are, as there are two solutions found).*

(* no cameras were heart while making this post) Click to continue ›

Continuous Ring Lights are quite popular as the work both with video and stills. A while back we featured a hack to build a ring light out of on old IKEA lamp called Kvartil chandelier, wich eliminated the woodwork from the common ring light design. Sadly that chandelier has been discontinued for a very long time now.

Luckily, there is a replacement. Photographer Iñigo Alonso found a replacement chandelier, the IKEA Glänsa. While it may look cumbersome at first glance (or glansa) stripped from all the spikes it provides a great ring light base.

There is also a video describing both the build and  the wiring (ask for help if you are not familiar with getting zapped with live wires). The vid is in Italian Spanish, but can be pretty much watched on mute if you prefer to avoid the musical language. Click to continue ›

I know you love continuous light ring lights, both for stills and video, however, one of the most common responses is that it is too complex to build and the need for woodmanship.

Well, aside from providing paper furniture and raw beauty dishes, IKEA seems to have solved the ring light issues as well. With the (sadly discontinued) Kvartil Chandelier. Sadly IKEA, not realizing the product potential for photographers, has discontinued the product. The concept however is too good not to be featured in the hopes that IKEA or some other chandelier manufacturer will make it right.

If you got more photography IKEA hacks I would love to hear them, share in the comments. Click to continue ›

Here is a quick one, that I think has not been around the yet.

After using your strobe for a while, the plastic top will get oxidized a bit, maybe get some stains. You know, it just aint looking as it used to any more. The shine that your old relations used to have is gone.

Luckily there is a quick way to fix that. Using sulfuric acid toothpaste. It is an old trick used to clean beat up headlights, and it worked wonders for my strobe.

Here is how you do it in three quick steps. Click to continue ›