Do you like photos with tilt-shift effect? If you do, then you know there are plenty of ways to make them. You can either buy a tilt shift lens or make one on your own. And if you prefer doing it in post-processing, Photoshop and Lightroom will be your allies. This tutorial from Scott Kelby teaches you to fake tilt-shift effect in Lightroom in no time.
Although tilt-shift lenses have many uses, one of the most common for timelapse photographers is miniaturisation. Tilt-shift lenses are expensive, though. Certainly worth the investment for things like architecture or products. But for most of us, who’ll only use it very occasionally, not so much. Most of the time, the look is simulated in post. While the tilt shift look is not new, this video from Rob & Jonas is probably one of the best explanations I’ve seen on reproducing it in the computer.
It’s not necessarily because of the technique or software used, but because Rob shows us exactly what miniature is supposed to look like. He does that by actually shooting something in miniature. In this case, Lego sets and characters. Rob reverse-engineers the look to apply it on a larger scale. It offers some valuable insight into both the shooting of it, as well as the post production.
Nowadays mirrorless cameras are becoming more and more popular. One thing people adore is its compact size and weight, other, the ability to adapt other system lenses via special adapters.
on the technical side, though, 18 mm flange focal distance allows Sony mirrorless system to adopt practically any other system lenses, like Canon EF, EF-S, Nikon S, F, M42 etc.
Looking native lens lineup at the moment, we see that there are no tilt-shift lenses for Sony. You can adapt other system tilt-shift lenses, but they are pricey, large and heavy. Another option is to thing is to look for workaround. That’s what I did.
I found a tilt M42 to Sony E mount adapter. Price wise it was ~30$, weights 130 grams, provide maximum 8 degree tilt – exactly thing I wanted, the ability to play with focal plane and bokeh. Though it does not have the shift part of a tilt-shift lens, it is good enough for what I need.
Tilt shift lenses are used for far more than simply making cities look like they were shot as miniatures. They allow you to correct for perspective distortion. They also let you shift the focal plane to get subjects at different distances in focus and a whole lot more. You don’t get quite the versatility that you would from the movements of a large format camera, but they’re a start.
Of course, the miniature effect in recent years (whether shot in camera, done in post, or applied in Instagram) has made tilt shift lenses quite popular. In this video from LensProToGo, we’re walked through the features of tilt-shift lenses, and exactly how they do what they do.
When Nikon updated the 70-200mm f/2.8VR with the VRII in 2009, it was much celebrated. Finally the vignetting issues that had plagued the original for full frame/film users had been fixed. While the VRII was just as successful as its predecessor it was quite heavily slated for focus breathing issues at the long end. Now, that has been replaced with the new Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR.
Nikon have also announced a new addition to their Perspective Control (PC) line of lenses. The ultrawide full frame Nikon PC-E Nikkor 19mm f/4E ED Tilt-Shift lens. Previously the widest lens in the PC Nikkor range was the 24mm f/3.5D, so this presents a pretty substantial increase in field of view.
Since the first tilt-shift timelapses started to appear online several years ago, it’s a look that’s been attempted, copied, and improved upon quite a bit. Tilt-shift lenses, however, can be pretty expensive, and for something that you may only use occasionally, an expense you may not be able to justify.
As a consequence, the tilt-shift look of many videos is created in post. In this video from VideoRevealed, Colin Smith shows us how we can quickly achieve the look in Adobe Premiere Pro.
Making a “good” or “nice” photo is so easy nowadays but how to be consistent when making series of photographs? Is it hard to do a full featured project using only one lens?
As my photographic career is fully focused on image sequencing, and mostly in form of time lapse, I always find some hassle every time I get assigned a non sequential photography job.
After seeing some photos taken with tilt lenses, I fell in love with the idea of lens tilting and its creative options – The miniature effect, Great control of focus and creamy bokeh.
I really wanted to have such a lens, but did not want to spend $1000 for the moderate use I will probably have for it. I decided to make my own. Here is how I did it.
I think that using a Mamiya lens is a stroke of genius for doing DIY tilt-shift lenses, mainly for two reasons: for one those lenses can be found on eBay for around 50-150 US Dollars and they provide superior quality for the price.
The second reason has to do with the optic qualities of large format lenses. A large format lens has to cover a large piece of film (or a large piece of sensor), as a result it casts a large image onto the film plane. This allows light to hit the sensor even if the image is tilted or shifted. But it gets better, the Flange Focal Distance – the distance a lens requires from its rear end to the film plane – is larger for medium format cameras so using a Mamiya lens allows having some bellows between the lens and body while still allowing non-macro photographs to be taken. [Read more…]
At about $1500 real tilt-shift lenses are not cheap. (Long time readers will appreciate the correct spelling :). Instructable user Cpt.Insano created a 3D printed adapter that converts practically and Nikon lens into a tilt shift lens. Sadly, getting the lens further from its flange distance means that the lens will only operate in Macro mode, but I would assume that getting a Nikon lens onto a Canon body may work as Nikon has longer focal flange distance than Canon.