Polarizing filters are great, they enhance skies, remove reflections and reduce glare from photos. On the other hand they are usually big and not something you’d haul around for a smartphone. Here is a quick little hack courtesy of the Koldunov Brothers that builds a small and portable polarizer filter for your smart phone.
If you are uploading photos and videos to facebook directly from your phone, you may have noticed that the quality is not on par as the photos you are uploading from your computer. The reason for this is that by default, the facebook app is set to upload low res photos and videos to facebook to save bandwidth and data charges.
If you want your photos and videos uploaded at maximum quality, here is what should should do:
If you have a great camera and you took a great photo* there is really no way to show the resolution of that photo in the internet. Now, you may wanna ask why would you even wanna show off the resolution of such a photo, and I can think of several reasons. Potential buyers may be interested, or maybe you are showing how good a lens is, or maybe you just want to tell people that if they throw gum on a bridge they will get caught.
There is a simple trick that involves a bit of masking and resizing to create a “Magnifying glass” lime you see in the photo above. Hit the jump for the full tutorial (and a few random photoshop tips)
Raise your hand if you ever lost/bricked/killed an iPhone or an Android*. Raise your other hand if that phone has lots of photos that you will never see again. That could be quite sad, and I have a friend who lost their iPhone today, so instead of going all “I told you so” on him, I am writing this post.
I mean, most of the apps, you will be able to download again, the lost of hardware is a good reason for an upgrade**, but the photos you had on the phone are now forever lost.
That is, unless you did this simple thing.
Here is a sweet tip we got from Adam Frimer about managing your cards while on a shoot. You start with a bunch of clean formatted cards. Place them all in a hard case facing up. This way you can see the data on each card. (Those hard cases are about $10 on amazon)
After using the card and filling it up, return the card to the case with the text facing downwards. This will indicate that the card has been used and it is not empty.
By now if you have ever seen any of my images you will know I am a big fan of contrast! I Like to crank that shizzle up to 11! haha
So this weeks article is going to be short and straight to the point (hooray I hear you shout!)
I am going to show you two quick ways to add contrast to your image, that give two different results! When I say quick, I dont mean fiddling around with curves. I literally mean a couple of clicks and we are done!
Here is a quick, yet powerful tip from Felix Alejandro Hernández Rodríguez. It is simple and all it involves is a couple packs of flour, and can really boost a photo. Here is how Felix describes it:
Here is a simple technique that I “discovered” a while ago… It has been useful in some projects… With this technique you can transfer texture and shadows to any surface…
It’s simple: In PS create two layers. On the top layer place the photo to which you want to transfer the texture and shadow On the bottom layer put the photo with the texture. (in our example the flour). Apply Multiply Blending Mode to the top layer and mask the areas where you don’t want the texture… Simple but effective.
P.S. if you are looking for relevant textures, you can always use a pre-made package like this one.
Here is a cool tagging idea we got from Roni Chastain. Roni uses dog tags for marking her gear. In an email to DIYP she explains:
… I have them [dog tag ] on my cameras, bags, tripod. I had my daughter put them on their sneakers, when they go out running…
… My thoughts have always been, if someone finds it and wants to return it, at least they know how to find me
I must say that this is quite a lovely idea. I mean, there are services like Lenstag out there that will store your serial numbers digitally for you, but they don’t look half as nice.
Yes, we know, this will not protect a camera from being stolen, but it will help it find its rightful owners should it get lost and found by an honest person.
If you, like me bundle up your USB and short power cables on travel, color coding them may be very helpful for getting them untangled quickly.
If the cable are color coded, and you did not make too much of a mess when bundling them with a cable tie, you should just be able to pull the two color coded ends and get one whole cable in your hands.
If you are doing a lot of run and gun, you may be recording sound directly to your camera. Now, without going into the question if this is a good practice or not, most DSLRs will limit you to one stereo channel with a 3.5mm mic plug.
But, there is a way around it, and it will not break your wallet (though some will say that it will double your in-camera-audio-recording penalty). But if you are absolutely in a pinch and need an extra channel on your DSLR, you can use a mini-mixer to separate the left and the right into 2 different devices. This one, your right channel will be used by one device and the left channel by another.
Why would you want that? Getting the feed from a wireless mic on one channel and a room mic on the other.
There are several mini-mixers in the market starting from about $50 for a Saramonic SR-AX100 or a $85 for a Beachtek Mcc-2 which sit on the hotshoe and also double as tripling the hot shoe for lights, mics and others. I am not sure I will put a lot of weight on that small connector though.
The plus on those devices, vs making your own DIY channel splitter (which would be quite easy) is the fact that you can control each channel separately.
Is this the best option? Maybe if you are frugal. If you can afford it, I would probably invest a bit more and buy a Zoom H4N or a TASCAM DR-60D which provide many many more features, as well as recording. But this is where we started, no 🙂 ?