Passengers flying from eight Muslim-majority countries will no longer be allowed to bring almost any electronics in their carry-on. Everything but cellphones and medical devices will have to be in the checked luggage starting today. This means laptops, tablets, Kindles and of course – cameras, can no longer be in the carry-on.
GoPro action cameras are small enough that they can be placed almost anywhere. But the problem with choosing unconventional locations is that you still have to press the record button yourself.
Of course, you could use GoPro’s smartphone app to trigger the camera. But there are undoubtedly times when you don’t want to put your smartphone at risk, or want to worry about your smartphone’s battery dying.
For these times, it’s best to have a backup wireless remote.
Now, with a little know-how, you can create a very inexpensive and incredibly small DIY GoPro remote, saving you from the cost of GoPro’s $65 proprietary remote.
If you’re on the PhotoJoJo mails, you must have gotten that awesome time lapse bit. On that post they recommend the Cannon TC80N3 – a round 100 dollars device that give you the ability to take time lapse images. (It is called Intervalometer, but I can’t even say it, let alone write it and feel good about myself).
There is some great stuff going on at DIYPhotography.net instructables group. This fantastic group is a true demonstration of the DIY spirit that is behind this site. I have talked before on the subject of creating your own flash. In that article Avner Richard explained how to utilize xenon tubes to create some real Watts/Second power flashes. It is a great piece for the ones that are electrically capable.
This guest post was made by Rolf Randby, the same person who wrote the Hot Shoe Adapter article. In fact, This slave trigger was the “trigger” (pan intended) for building the hot shoe adapter in the first place.
There are some Gazillion optical slaves out there. We even one optical slave unit published on this site. So what is so special about this circuitry? Rolf used a PIC (Programmable Interrupt Controller) to give this unit some very nice features: 1. No setup 2. It will work with a red eye setting in your camera. Yep, those annoying red-eye pre-flashes will not trigger the flash, it will “magically know” when the main slash if fired and activate the unit. 3. It will work with all point and shoot cameras.
Those three nice features accomplished with PIC hex code written by Evan Dudzik, from a algorithm by Rolf, make this unit an optimal optical slave unit for P&S cameras. It is the reason I call it the “Very Cool Optical Slave Unit”. Rolf, for some reason, insists on the boring name “STF 1”. I’ll stick with my name – “Very Cool Optical Slave Unit” or VeCOSU :). [Read more…]
See this exploding grape picture? it was taken using a method called high-speed-photography. Yup, this is the same image type as those exploding balloons, squashed tomatoes and bullet shots. The idea is to capture a tiny moment in time, so tiny in fact, that you will not see it with your bar eyes. Trying to capture a flying bullet is not trivial, you can read about the general setup here. [Read more…]
How to take photos like the one you are seeing here. It’s a glass of Champaign, being shot with a BB gun. You can use this technique to take picture of exploding things like tomatoes, watter balloons, watermelons, or even you Canon camera as you smash it against a wall for not understanding the menus (Sorry, could not resist…) [Read more…]
This article will describe my home made sound trigger electronic kit.
I use this circuit kit to take high speed photos like the nice tomato splash shown here (more about high speed photography setups). This circuit is not complicated and the total cost is low so it is even suitable as your first electronics kit. [Read more…]
The measurements in the below table help to illustrate the amount of time that the flash is emitting light in each of its various power setting. This time is crucial when taking high speed photos.
Measurements were done with a Photo-diode, oscilloscope set to 50ohm.
|1/1 Output power|
|1/2 Output power|
|1/4 Output power|
|1/8 Output power|
|1/16 Output power|
|1/32 Output power|
|1/64 Output power|
|1/128 Output power|
contributed by Karsten Stroemvig (aka Lullaby)
This is a very simple diagram and instructions for building a shutter release cable for a canon DSLR.
Cable release is that thingamajig you use when you want to activate your camera, but you do not want to touch it. Why would you want t do this? I can think of two reasons: 1 – you do not want to move the camera by pressing the shutter release button. And 2 – you need to stand away from the camera. Compared with Cannon’s RS60 E3 this is a real nice deal. [Read more…]