Last month I’ve been really fascinated with food photography and product shots with wood table or wood texture in the background. Ever since I’ve been planning to try and make my own. Eventually I stopped procrastinating and just started doing it. This is my first prototype and it works pretty well, tough I am not promising to improve on future version.
You can always have some spare batteries to replace the dead ones, but Chris Winter shared a pretty cool external battery hack that uses a 10,000mAh which is roughly 9 times the capacity.
Now, I am not sure if you can actually call off the shelf products a hack, but between the fast that you get so much more usage time and the clever way Chris mounts the battery with Velcro, I thought it is worth sharing.
If you are looking into a well built Time lapse motion controller, you may have noticed how expensive these things are. An eMotimo TB3 for example (review | buy) will set you back about a grand and a Syrp Genie is not far behind (unboxing | buy). And none will provide full 3 axis motion control. So of course a possible solution would be to build a time lapse motion controller yourself. It is not an easy task, and gladly, Doug Urquhart over at Instructables is giving a pretty comprehensive tutorial.
Over the years we’ve seen our share of photo booths here at DIYP. However, this guide from Mike Mikkelson (who also runs a photobooth business) is probably the most ever comprehensive guide I’ve seen to date. Aside from covering everything (EVERYTHING) from construction, software, printing and props, the fact that Mike runs is as a business makes it a field tested build. Enjoy!
I had been thinking of building a Photo Booth for a couple of years, but never seemed to get around to it. A good friend is getting married at the end of the year, and I’m am the Official Photographer for the event. In speaking with him about the wedding, he had assigned another friend of ours to create a photo booth. I had mentioned that I could help on that project as I had already done heaps of research on the subject. In chatting with our mutual friend, he was having issues coming up with reasonable solutions, and I brought up additional concerns and options.
- Did the Bride and Groom want an actual booth, as this might limit the number of people who could participate?
- Would an “Open Air Booth” be acceptable, this allowing groups of people to participate?
- Would they want the booth to product prints for the guests, and potentially themselves?
It was decided that a laptop running photo booth software and capturing images from a webcam would just not be good enough for this event. I said that I would take the lead on this and come up with a plan. Here are my personal requirements:
- Must be able to utilize dSRL Canon camera to capture great shots within the booth
- A Booth that is portable, and can be modified to use as a booth and open with a backdrop.
- Built-in Softbox for proper lighting
- Must be self-sufficient and users can figure it out themselves. Not sure if we’ll have an attendant at this event. (Remember, I’m the Official Photog, and can’t consume my time with the booth)
- Booth PC would be internet enabled and wireless
- Images would be automagically uploaded to the internet as backup as they were taken.
- Can be used as either a Photobooth or a Video Booth.
We received a nifty little Actobotics slider kit from ServoCity and over the winter I had the opportunity to shoot a mix of live action and cell phone time lapse video and also a little bit of GoPro video with the slider.
In this post I am going to review the Actobotics slider as a tool for creating movement in both live action video and GoPro or cell phone time lapse video.
For those who have been following DIYPhotography for a while now, you are well aware of the awesome photographic results that can be achieved with materials NOT purchased from your local, friendly photo gear retailer. For those who are finding this to be your first visit to DIYPhotography, may I please inquire as the exact size of the rock under which you have been hiding. [Read more...]
There are a lot of panning heads out there, ranging from cheap and light all the way to uber-expensive and heavy duty. None did a decent job with a D800 mounted with a Nikon 400mm f2.8 beast. This is the story about a building a dedicated motorized Pan-Tilt-Head, used for automated panoramic shooting, if you’re not sure what those are check out our world biggest Where is Waldo project.
I have devised a way of using the very popular Rokinon 8mm F2.8 fisheye lens that comes under several other branded names including; Samyang and Bower. The photo included is of no great interest. In fact it’s just a photo taken at the rear of a house. But, the significance of the actual image lies in the fact that it is an infrared photograph taken by using a 8mm fisheye lens on an unconverted Fujifilm X-Pro1.
Surely a filter cannot be fitted onto the front of the 8mm fisheye lens? So how did I do it, I hear you ask? The answer is after the jump, but lets just say that, this is going to be one of those try-it-at-your-own-risk kind of posts
Robert Capa once said, “If your pictures aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” And he was not talking about longer lenses, he actually meant moving your feet. But what if you shooting such a blazing inferno that even pyrotechnicians are afraid of.
Back in the days, when we were still capturing images on sheets of plastic, ISO (also known as ASA) was not a button on the back of a camera. It was a chemical property of the film. Some cameras could read the encoding on the film can and set the ISO accordingly. But sometimes you wanted to get more out of a film – to set it to a higher (or lower) ISO. This process is called pushing/puling the film, and if the camera you had could only do auto ISO decoding, you had to hack the film.
Even today, if you still roll your own film, you may find this technique useful. We present – The Full Guide To Hacking DX Film Annotations