Do you prefer natural light over studio light? Peter McKinnon does, and in his latest tutorial, he shows a simple way to make your own “natural light” when you don’t have enough of the real one. And not only is it simple, but you can make this setup for about $80, maybe even less. If you shoot and/or live in a place with little natural light, this setup is a lifesaver.
RAISR stands for Rapid and Accurate Image Super-Resolution. It’s Google’s prototype software which utilises machine learning to provide better quality upsampling of low resolution images. They first showed off the technology in November last year, but now Google have announced that RAISR has been implemented into Google+ for Android.
The point of the technology is to save bandwidth. Many mobile users have fairly limited bandwidth. Either they have low limits, or it’s just slow. Google see RAISR as an option to save bandwidth. The idea is to scale down the images before sending out. This means they’re smaller and easier to send. Then RAISR blows them back up to their original size on the receiving end. And it wants to do this with the minimal of impacts on quality.
When creating studio portraits, it’s good to make the subject stand out from the background. Most photographers know this, but many still make the mistake and don’t backlight their models properly (or at all). In this short video, photographer Manny Ortiz will show you three easy ways to backlight your model and make it separate from the background using speedlights.
In 2016, I joined team Fuji after being extremely impressed with the X-T2 body. I had been watching mirrorless technology for a while, but this was the first time a system had everything I wanted in a camera body. While I finally had a satisfying mirrorless experience, with great autofocus, low-light capabilities, and image quality, I quickly realized the system was lacking in the flash department. Not only did Fuji lack a dedicated speedlight, but the low market share has also kept 3rd party companies from building dedicated lighting products for Fuji systems.
After plenty of delays, the flagship Fuji EF-X500 speedlight has finally hit shelves globally. While it fills a monstrous gap in the system, it comes with a steep price of $449.99, which may be a tough pill to swallow for photographers who have become accustomed to affordable feature-rich solutions such as the Godox X series lighting. I have been holding out myself, but thankfully Fuji friend Jeffrey Lewis Bennett let me borrow his 3 EF-X500s to see if they were right for me. Here’s what I found in my testing.
*Note, my accompanying video is quite long and goes over the flash in-depth, so if you are interested in a specific portion you will find links in the video description, as well as the category headers.
Fujifilm have today announced two new X-Series cameras, the X100F and X-T20, along with a new XF 50mm f/2 R WR lens. The X100F represents the fourth generation in the X100 series and comes with the 24.3MP sensor found in the higher end X-Pro2 and X-T2 cameras. The X-T20 also comes with the 24.3MP sensor and shoots 4K video. The X100, however, is limited to only 1080p.
Fuji have also given up the price for their new medium format GFX camera. At $6,499 for the body alone, it’s certainly not a cheap camera. Compared to its nearest neighbour, though, the Hasselblad X1D, there’s a rather substantial difference. On paper, there’s very little difference between the two, although there are a couple of big ones for some potential buyers.
Everyone has those days when it would be better if they just stayed in bed. Photographers also have them, and often things simply don’t go as you’ve planned. Thomas Heaton shows what it looks like when a landscape photographer has a bad day. And no matter what kind of photography you do, you’ve probably had a day like this, too.
One of the biggest issues for those looking to expand their lighting setup is colour consistency. Even expensive ones can be very slightly out from each other. Even within a single brand, different models or generations of light can also be a little different to each other. But the problem is especially so with cheap LED lights, which often have huge colour shifts.
There are ways to work around this, though, and this video from Tony Reale over at Creative Edge shows us how. It does take some experimentation and work, though. But, once you’ve done it, you’ll know exactly how far out from each other each of your lights are. Then you’ll be able to quickly correct those colour shifts in the future before you’ve even turn the lights on.
The new Leica M10 is here! The latest addition to the loved M-system lineup is available for preorders, and “Its unique balance of heritage and technical innovation embodies the essence of everything that is truly important for photography.”
This is the thinnest digital M camera of all time, with improved performance and more intuitive handling. It comes with an ISO setting dial on top, along with some other new and interesting features.
Here’s a (semi) fun way to start the year off right – it’s time to calibrate the focus of your lenses!
Most DSLRs offer options for “micro adjustment” or to “fine tune” the focus of attached lenses. If you happen to use Sigma ART series lenses, you can also use Sigma’s USB Dock for even more refined lens focus calibrations.